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Dinner at Wildflour
Dinner here last night. This morning, back for breakfast.
Not content to write about Wildflour on the basis of just one visit, I decide to go back for breakfast. A guy I know has never been to this bakery+café for any other meal except the first one of the day. “I see it as a breakfast place, it appeals most to me then,” he says.
Being big on breakfast myself – you can take away my lunch and dinner, but don’t you dare touch my brekkie, I’m here at 8:15 am on a weekday. There’s plenty of space taken up mostly by expats so it’s quite relaxed. Saturday breakfast is another story altogether however.
My first order is what I’d been eyeing since dinner last night: the suggestively named Hazelnut Hot Chocolate (hello, Nutella!) Ordered with the Wildflour donut (P215 together) – I choose a Nutella [donut] over the strawberry option for a doubly devilish starter. One sip, thick and fragrant, of this potent potion is all I need to tell you that this hot chocolate blows a similar beverage served at Maitre Chocolatier clear out of the water. Thick but not sludgy, it caresses the throat with a lick of cream and that beloved commingling of hazelnut and chocolate. I do my duty by dipping the donut into the drink, and immediately feel my spine go slack from pleasure.
Because I was so disappointed with the dry Sticky Bun (P130) I had last night, I’m ready to write off this pastry – they are called “sticky” for a reason. I’m encouraged to give it another go however when I’m told that this morning, they’re freshly made. Made with the lush brioche dough that Wildflour’s Croque Madame is made from, this sticky bun rectifies its initial impression. Lip-sticky and lovely, its coils conceal a cache of caramel bolstered by brown sugar and vanilla. If you order this and/or the donut (above) please specify that they should be served warm. You’ll be doing yourself an injustice otherwise.
Here’s the Wildflour Breakfast (P390), a plate of possibilities presented to perk up my morning. It’s a study in the glory of gold: two fried eggs perfectly cooked, crisp-coated potato wedges that are so difficult to do at home but excellently rendered here, and slices of buttered, ciabatta-like bread with its characteristic larger holes and a looser crumb. The sausages here, made on the premises, are spicy and scattered with caraway seeds; the lingering licorice note emphasizes the sausage’s meatiness.
A weekday breakfast at Wildflour is relaxing, certainly the time to come when you yearn to experience the best of what this bakery+café has to offer minus the mania (and explosive decibel levels) of the dinner crowd. As I eat, I look at the morning’s beauty shining through the glass windows, a pastiche of light and shadow, the glow of a day beautifully burgeoning. I wish all days could start like this.
At a little over two inches thick, the Brioche French Toast (P320) is an intimidating proposition. But as I’ve mentioned, I so love Wildflour’s brioche that the increased surface area almost compels me to rest my head on its pillowy front. Luckily, good sense takes over and really, I don’t quite fancy my face smeared with maple syrup anyway. The amber liquid is infinitely better as an add-on anyway, its subtle mellowness accomplishing that balance of salty-sweet with sausage (P+70), my choice; or with bacon (P+60).
I like my scrambled eggs runny and wet and Wildflour (Scrambled Eggs on Toast [P260]) makes an exceptional version. On a bed of buttered ciabatta lies a cloud spun of gold, egg curds cooked just ‘til barely opaque. Naked and warm, they’re then blanketed with the curiously named “Bacon Gravy.” Such an unflattering moniker for a lavish Mornay sauce, rich with yolks and velvet-smooth, it’s pocked with lardons, strips of bacon fat, its salty smokiness shooting through this stellar offering. I urge you to try this dish, your morning will be all the better for it.
Of course, no breakfast is complete with coffee and for that, Wildflour doesn’t disappoint. They serve the artisan brand, La Mill, and even their simple Americano is hot and bracing. Though I’m more of a black coffee drinker, I’m encouraged to try the Vietnamese Latte (P115/140). Capped with charming heart art, it’s a clever combination of espresso, fresh milk, and condensed milk. Beneath the beverage’s heat, an underlying sweetness sallies forth, resting on the tongue before being hit by another wave of sharp espresso.
Wildflour Café + Bakery
G/F, Net Lima Bldg., 4th Ave. cor. 26th St., Bonifacio Global City, Taguig.
(02) 856 7600
Breakfast from 8am-2pm.
Wildflour will open on Sundays beginning 3rd week September.
Reservations always highly recommended.