by Lori Baltazar
The onset of Holy Week is the go signal for a mass exodus from Manila. Millions leave this metropolis in exchange for beaches, hot sun, and their vacation homes. I am one of the few who prefer to stay behind, and Manila is mine, all mine. Ah, glory!
I actually am way ahead of the maddening crowd, having taken a road trip to Laguna a few days ago upon the urging of my sisters, one of whom has even printed out a detailed five-page guide. Good thing she does, because we are desperately reliant on the maps and directions. “My god, my god, this thing is not to scale!” my exasperated soon-to-be brother in law, and our navigator, Vinnie exclaims. “One inch on the map is like, so far in reality!”
How A Buko Pie Is Made
But we enjoy the hour-long ride, pointing out various campaign posters for the upcoming May elections and musing on which candidates have our vote. Colette’s Buko Pie at Pasalubong in San Pablo City, Laguna is our first stop. Colette’s is an institution, as far as native sweets and buko pies are concerned. Their stores are dotted all across Luzon, especially in tourist-heavy places like Tagaytay where every few hundred meters boasts of a Colette’s. But San Pablo City is Colette’s headquarters and I’m excited to be here. This is their main branch, where in 1989, Colette’s buko pie business began, maximizing the abundance of coconuts in Laguna. Though there were already several stores selling the same product in the province, Colette’s would be the first in San Pablo City.
I have to get special permission to take photos inside the commissary. Dong, the supervisor, is a friendly man who is our tour guide for the few minutes we’re there. The space is about as large as other professional bakeries I’ve seen. Subdivided into three, there’s a room for the hacking open of the bukos and scraping out the meat; a place for mixing and rolling of the pie crusts; and a section for filling the pies, making the lattice crusts, and packaging.
You can see from the pale color of the dough that the crusts are made primarily from shortening. Of course butter would tint it a muted yellow and impart its unique flavor, but shortening is sufficient for flakiness as well as to cut costs. Plus, nothing can beat the old fashioned style of pie crusts made from shortening.
Each crust is roughly nine inches in diameter. The dough is divided into those that are for the lattice crusts (seen in foreground), and those that are made for a peek-a-boo top crust. I especially like the nifty, steel flat plate used to make it. It certainly beats cutting out those little squares one by one with a cookie cutter, which is what I do.
Each buko pie consists of a custard filling which comes out of a large spout, and is interspersed with layers of succulent buko meat. A top crust is then added on. Already, my mouth is beginning to water and I can’t wait to sink my teeth into a slice. It’s all I can do to restrain myself from grabbing one of the pies that are being packaged and wolfing it down.
It’s neither hot nor cool inside the commissary, but what surprises me is how there’s no smell of pie in the air. Buko doesn’t really emit an aroma when it bakes, and I should know, having baked one myself just recently. I’m aware that some of you reading this post will be appalled at how the bakers are using their bare hands to handle the pies. Their explanation for that is the heat of the oven is so hot that it will kill all the germs. At least they’re wearing hairnets. I can tell you more alarming stories of things I’ve seen in other kitchens, so relax a bit, won’t you. Besides, I don’t know anyone who’s ever gotten sick from eating a Colette’s buko pie.
The pie that we try is Colette’s newest offering, the buko supreme pie (P195). The traditional top crust is replaced by a streusel, similar to that used in apple pie or my favorite, crumb cake.
Streusel is a crumbly topping made from butter, flour, sugar, and sometimes spices. I don’t detect any in this one however, just the goodness of butter and sugar. The pie itself is just minutes out of the oven. Still warm, the custard oozes into my mouth with enough bite coming from the crust and lush buko meat. Speckles of sugar dance on my tongue, while stray crumbs of crust stick to my lips. This is a pie that must be eaten sans fork and saucer. All you need are your fingers and gaping maw. Damn good pie!
In San Pablo’s Casa
As corporate people, or what my former officemate used to call, “them corpy types,” my sister and brother in law are always looking for out of town places to hold seminars and planning sessions. So it was upon their suggestion that we look at Casa San Pablo, a country inn owned by Boots and An Alcantara. Modeled upon dilettantish and multifarious works of art, every room has its own theme ”“ hot cars, memories, etc. ”“ and lots of charm with bunk beds and lofts. Pine trees dot the sprawling landscape but what I particularly like are the hammocks arranged haphazardly on the lawn, excellent for plopping yourself in after a heavy meal.
Kusina Salud, sort of
This is the home of designer Patis Tesoro. A verdant environment decorated with bric-a-brac ”“ Patis herself says, “I’m not Zen. I never throw anything away,” ”“ her country home is a study of styles and antitheses. A bright room gives way to a more dim dining room. Tucked away, it looks out onto the kitchen, divided only by glass. Today is Sunday and the restaurant is only serving a buffet (P395++/head) and a la carte will be served only at dinner. Immediately, my hopes are dashed because I’ve heard so much about Kusina Salud chef Pol Poblador, and his self-described “Pinoy classics updated.” I decide to forego the buffet that includes dishes like Vietnamese-style salad with calamares fritos, chicken binakol, deep fried fish fillets, and organic white rice. It doesn’t appeal to me, and while I’m disappointed, it only fuels my resolution to come back here again.
Quezon is a sanctuary for artists who find the tranquility enervating, a place to really get their creative juices flowing. Tiaong, Quezon is where master potter Ugu Bigyan finds his home and workplace ”“ a haven of little huts connected by paved paths and bathed in a garden of green. You can opt to have a meal here (I hear they serve great suman), but you have to reserve in advance. Since we didn’t, we content ourselves with looking through his work for sale — bowls, plates, cups, and lots of other decorative pieces. Aside from cookbooks, it’s plateware and things for the kitchen that get my heart racing. I could’ve spent a small fortune in there but luckily came away with just two cups and a plate.
What you see outside the car window
Driving through the countryside in the Philippines usually consists of one long main road that’ll get you into the next province and plenty of little alleys that lead farther into town. But it’s what I see outside the window as the car zips by that matters the most to me. There are plenty of sari-sari stores, bakeries, markets, carinderias, and those stalls unique to a particular province. In Laguna, we pass by a roadside fruit stand selling lambanog (coconut wine), vinegar, and some of the largest chico, also tsiko (sapodillas) I’ve ever seen. Brown in color, it has an almost papery, rough skin. Its fruit is mushy, with a sweet yet gritty texture, and needs to be scooped out. I peel and eat it like an apple. That day, the large chico is being sold for P55/kilo.
As we drive farther on, the afternoon sun blazes through the windows. Spare pieces of clothing and bags of chips are used to keep the sun’s harshness at bay. It’s siesta time. I have trouble sleeping in any kind of moving vehicle ”“ I once stayed awake during a 13-hour flight ”“ so I keep busy with my 4-year old nephew. We talk about the things that we see outside the window.
Then, as the car stops in traffic, I spy this little stand selling aluminum cookware. The wares glitter in the afternoon sunshine. I roll my window down to take a picture. The stall keeper, witnessing what I’ve just done, shoots me a quizzical look. As the car pulls away, my nephew asks me, “Why did you take a photo, Tita Lori?” “To remember what I’ve seen today,” I reply, ruffling his hair. Such curiosity and wonder these young ones possess, something I always hope to have myself. I just wish that there’d been more food on this trip, though.
Establishments’ addresses to follow.
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I love buko pie, especially when it’s freshly baked. I didn’t know that the center for Colette’s was San Pablo; I’d always thought that it was located in Los Banos.
Great pictures, Lori.
Hi Lori! We went to Collette’s & Casa San Pablo too like a couple of weeks ago. We also brought home the Buko Pie Supreme. I found it too sweet though. I still like the traditional Buko Pie they sell. Did you try eating at Caffe Curio? We wanted to visit more Viaje del Sol places like Kusina Salud and Ugu Bigyan’s but my Dad was too lazy to drive us around. That will be next on our list. I’ll just feast my eyes on the pictures you took. =P
A very nice feature on Collete’s Buko Pie. I hope you don’t mind if i post a summary at http://www.sanpablocity.net and link it here.
Thanks!
hmmmm……. buko pie!!! I like mine cold out of the fridge. (I wonder if I’m the only one who likes it that way?)
I really enjoy road trips! I have been wanting to do Viaje del Sol…looks like lots of interesting things to see 🙂 I have been to Ugo’s but very long ago. I hope their food is just as good as it was then…
I ate in Kusina Salud in Baguio…good stuff! I enjoyed their purple rice risotto.
Hi Lori,
Have you tried the Caramel Apple in megamall near toy kingdom?
Hi Lori,
I’ve been following your blog for sometime now and I really love your food shots!
I’ve heard so much about the viaje del sol tour and read about some places in the net but don’t know where/which place to start and the next stop, so on. I was wondering if you could send me a guide or something, something like “must-go-to places”, “must-try” food items/restos, etc, via email. I hope you don’t mind… 🙂 I’ve tried the restos and stuff you’ve recommended in your blog and it never fails!
thanks in advance!
Gaaa!!! I just came home from 3 days at Tagaytay Highlands and decided NOT to stop by Colette’s and now i am so regretting it. 🙁
Thanks for another enticing photo-essay travelogue post, Lori. My family and I are chilling out in Tagaytay right now – you have just given us a very timely adjustment in our itinerary for tomorrow’s planned road trip.
By the way, that pic of a female baker of Colette’s arranging buko meat on an unbaked pie WITH HER BARE HANDS is a real turn-off. The oven heat might just destroy all germs that strayed into the filling, but who wants cooked pathogens included in one’s food? One is wont to think that a progressive and popular brand like Colette’s could at least provide their bakers with disposable gloves especially for the task of filling their pies. Geesh, if they have no qualms of “manhandling” their product with a journalist around, one can just imagine the goings-on without. Guess we will have to scrap their pies from our south of Manila pasalubong list from now on. Thanks once again for the eye-opener, Lori.
Great photos. Buko pie sounds quite tasty. I love the crust maker.
We had a “partial” viaje del sol this week: an overnight stay at Casa San Pablo and lunch at Kusina Salud. In Casa, must-tries are Tosokolate with pinipig and kuwalo. But when we were there, they ran out of banana palm heart and used eggplants instead. But the place is clean and so relaxing. We also had, I think, the best room (#12), with a queen size bed and two single beds where we had our afternoon massage. The kid and her lola stayed in a smaller room, but nice and quaint (designed by Ugu Bigyan). Best of all, it’s wi-fi’d! Kusina Salud for me is always a winner. They had the kulawo I was craving for (banana palm heart!) with oh-my-goodness chicaron bituka. We had about 4 ulams (including bacalao) and 3 desserts ( a lot for 3 adults and a 4-year old kid) and our bill wasn’t even P1,500. Plus very good service, especially from Jerome. Nina Poblador too was very gracious, taking time off from the frenzy to say hello. The place was packed!!! Good thing we had called for reservations. Do try it again, on a day when it’s not buffet and you can order Lechon Kawali, chicharon bulaklak, shrimp with kamias, lumpia, etc.
Thanks for the digital tour, Lori.
Lovely pictures. 🙂
wow. this reminds me of countless trips to my mom’s province (laguna) as a kid. thanks for this. 🙂
I’ve tried Kusina Salud’s Sunday buffet and was very pleasantly surprised. I agree that the menu when you went there isn’t that exciting, but it’s different every week. The Sunday we were there, the menu looked just okay, but the dishes tasted much better than the descriptions made them out to be. I also love how, unlike the usual buffet, diners don’t line up at the buffet table for their food; rather, the servers bring them to the table. Much more conducive to nice conversations, since you don’t have to keep leaving the table to get more food. I hope to go back and try their a la carte offerings soon.
Hi Lori!
nasa likod nyo ako ni Bin naka upo nung Awards night. Congrats!!!
neways i love the buko pie of Laguna. My sister’s fiance is based in San Pablo so everyweeknd we have Colette’s or D’ Original Buko Pie at home. I love it, either warm or chilled.
Hi Lori. I submitted a comment to this post last April 5 while my family and I spent a night in Tagaytay enroute to a southbound road trip – for some reason it never appeared on your blog despite my repeated posting (which Word Press kept rejecting). Was it expurgated or something? Maybe I shouldn’t have said that seeing a pic of one of the bakers of Colette’s putting buko meat on a custard-filled pie crust WITH HER BARE HANDS makes me have second thoughts about buying their products regardless of how delectable they can be? But of course that’s only my opinion – some people may not mind having pathogens from someone else’s bare hands baked along with their pie.
Other than that, your post is as usual very engaging. Your feature on Ugu Bigyan made us change our Black Saturday itinerary to include a visit to this potter’s showroom. Thanks and God bless.
Hi Lori,
Love your site. I check it everyday. Your pictures of your Laguna trip makes me home sick. I love the buko pie cold also. I love chico! That particular picture is torture. But what I love in Laguna is kwek kwek and Sinaing na Tulingan.
Hi Lori! I’m a new visitor and I’m not really a bukopie fan so I’m reading your archives instead. I must say that it’s difficult to read your posts without craving for dessert. Luckily, I have some leftover cake in the fridge and don’t have to drool the whole time.
Hi Lori. I submitted a comment to this post last April 5 while my family and I spent a night in Tagaytay enroute to a southbound road trip – for some reason it never appeared on your blog despite my repeated posting (which Word Press kept rejecting). Was it expurgated or something? Maybe I shouldn’t have said that seeing a pic of one of the bakers of Colette’s putting buko meat on a custard-filled pie crust WITH HER BARE HANDS makes me have second thoughts about buying their products regardless of how delectable they can be? But of course that’s only my opinion – some people may not mind having pathogens from someone else’s bare hands getting baked along with their pie.
Other than that, your post is as usual very engaging. Your feature on Ugu Bigyan made us change our Black Saturday itinerary to include a shopping visit to this potter’s showroom. Thanks for the traveller’s tips and God bless.
hi lori! am a fellow foodie/traveller here… do you have the addresses of ugu bigyan, kusina salud & caffe curio? thanx in advance 🙂
love colette’s. my hubby and i eat it by the slice, with our hands. like pizza!we finish it in the car before we even get home.
question. i love lengua de gato. a friend gave us some wonderful, buttery, thin ones but won’t tell where to reorder. help! where can we find some really excellent lengua de gato. we love it buttery, paper thin and crispy. thanks.
KC – I can never understand why people will gift you with something and then refuse to divulge their source. Smacks of selfishness to me. Anyway, here’s a good source for lengua de gato, paper-thin and crispy, just like you say: Peggy Salazar, 0916.5995440.
thanks for you reply and the phone number. your blog is great and will keep me in the gym!
went with my entire family on a partial viaje del sol trip…loved our stay at casa san pablo…we practically had it all to ourselves..loved the tsokolate con pinipig and they made special menu for my diabetic parents at no extra cost…boots and an alcantara and the mom were nice and accomodating and toured us in their lovely house…
loved kusina salud…loved the food and the service…again no extra charge for special menu for my parents…nina tesora was very nice though i didnther personally, she texted (and still does) to make sure we were enjoying ourselves…that was the same day they were featured on aTVPatrol segment so naextra pa kami on nationwide TV heheh
also visited Tahanan ni Aling Meding…which was affordable and cozy
good thing about this people is that they really support each other instead of fighting over customers…i called Ugu Bigyan to resereve lunch for us…he then referred us to kusina salud to make sure we try their buffet
Hi Lori!
Next time you go to Quezon, I suggest driving all the way to Tayabas. Tummy stop at Kamayan sa Palaisadaan. Really superb food! Lunch for 8 would barely touch a thousand pesos and you’ll be rubbing tummies by then =). On the way back to Manila, before you reach the new by pass round, there’s Earthkeepers. They whip up wicked sinigang. And a round of organic foodies as well =)
wow! I’m eating colette’s buko pie right now (yesterday i just got home from laguna).
Hmm.. nothing beats traditional cookery! they may say it’s not very “clean” but you’re right, no one ever gets sick or anything (come on, don’t tell me they don’t do the same thing too)
Lovely blog, eating my pie while reading this makes it more appetizing
Are the pottery items at Ugu’s expensive. wanted to try also Kusina Salud but is the food not worth going to? Thanks and more power.