A few days after my feature on Kopi Roti came out, Diana Tan of Delifrance emails me:
Is it okay for us to send you a box of our coffee buns? I think they’re pretty good (and in my opinion better than Kopi Roti’s! Hehe). I never say no to food so after I send Diana an affirmative reply, I pretty much camp out on my doorstep eagerly awaiting the delivery from Delifrance. Food is always worth waiting for.
There’s no way, absolutely no way that you’ll miss these buns. For one thing, they’re HUGE. More than four inches across, I admit that they remind me of a few things, some quite salacious actually. But it’s all in good fun and it’s all good. A light brown kissed by cinnamon is the color of these delightful orbs. Contrary to their appearance, they’re lightweights, not heavy or dense at all. You could polish one off by yourself.
I poke my finger lightly onto the top of a bun. A dimple develops, evidence of its airiness. I’m intrigued. So I bite. My teeth sink through tufts of puff, and then encounter chewiness, the “bite” evident in a product that’s been made with bread flour; think: pugon pandesal, or that first bite of a macaroon. That unexpected tug and resistance to the bite is a texture that delights.
Eager to see if there’s any filling, I rip open a bun with my bare hands. Immediately my guilty conscience dictates that I should’ve at least used a bread knife. Savage. And there the middle is, staring at me, a tunnel of sweet butter. More like a glaze than frosting or liquid, it adds a jolt of sweetness, a reward for getting to the core — or sharing this bun with someone.
The only coffee really, in this roll of sorts, is the coffee frosting around the edges. Look closely at the photo and you can actually see the marks of the piping tip that was used to create this effect. I nibble the edges (they come off easily), and instantly, a suggestion of coffee comes forth.
So I play. First, a bite of the edges: an echo of coffee. Then a peck close to the center: a smattering of buttery sweetness hugged by pillows of soft dough. Then a hot sip of my coffee that I’ve brewed earlier: its tempered bitterness and caramel undertone combine the previous tastes of coffee and butter. The flavors echo on my tongue. I must have another bite.
Delifrance’s coffee bun
Available at all Delifrance outlets
P210/box of 6; or P35/each
The buns are best if reheated before serving.
Special thanks to Diana Tan of Delifrance for this remarkable coffee bun experience.