Eating out is like trying my luck at the lotto, give or take some factors. Lately, I’ve been on a “losing streak,” where every restaurant I’ve been to has me feeling a hunger in my stomach and soul. It’s terribly disconcerting. Unless my meal was especially horrid, I almost always go back to a restaurant a second, even third time just to see if the first time around was a fluke. Here then, are some of my hits and misses in three separate posts all to be posted in one day.
In this series: Cocorama, C2 Classic Cuisine, and Paul Calvin’s Deli.
Paul Calvin’s Deli
The instructions are: ”It’s at the Fort … somewhere on the road between McDonald’s and Market Market.” I agree, not too helpful yes, and in my search to find Paul Calvin’s Deli, I end up taking a tour of the entire Fort; that is, until a security guard who’s heard of the place, points me in the right direction.
There’s not much to dislike about the place, in fact, I fall in love with it at first sight. Hues of orange and butter yellow glide into one another effortlessly accented by touches of country home paraphernalia. A sufficiently stocked deli and shelves of imported products mostly from Italy are a diner’s backdrop.
My first visit here is just for coffee and a cupcake ”“ in this case, a banana-Nutella one. The cake has come straight from the chiller and since this is a butter-based batter, the cake has frozen right through. My teeth sink ”“ well, with much effort admittedly ”“ only to hit a rock-hard Nutella truffle center. I frown, and ask the server if she can heat up the cupcake for me. No, they don’t have a microwave so they’ll pop it into the toaster oven.
It doesn’t help much really, save for letting the damn thing melt in the sun, but at least the crumb has loosened somewhat. It’s a tasty cake, satisfying in its simplicity and the coffee’s not bad.
My second visit is a full-blown meal that starts out dismally and doesn’t quite pick up from there. The mozzarella sticks (P199) have obviously been sitting in the back of the freezer for too long that they’ve acquired the taste of whatever package they’ve been housed in. But I keep gnawing on them in hopes that they’ll taste better with every bite. The chicken fingers (P149; not pictured) are slightly better.
The homemade tapa (P149) is marinated in an absolutely tasty sauce that’s simultaneously sweet and peppery. Unfortunately, the meat is also so tough that every mouthful requires at least 30 chews before it can slide down the gullet. This is my Bin’s dish, and brave boy that he is, he’s actually finished off the entire thing but he looks thoroughly exhausted afterwards.
The smoked sausage and ham pasta (P199; not pictured), Boo’s dish, is safe and decent with just enough cheese and satisfying enough for a 5 year old.
Perhaps I should’ve ordered a sandwich since this is a deli after all, but the server recommends the rosemary-crusted salmon with parsley rice and mango salsa (P349). Each component stands on its own, leaving the diner with some tasty mix and match choices. The rice is pleasing to the bite and the salmon is cooked just ”˜til it’s opaque so it’s tender and not dry. The mango salsa, layering flavors of cilantro, tomatoes, and mangoes, is good enough by itself but it somehow loses translation when paired with the fish. Like a boat set for the Caribbean that somehow gets sidetracked to France, this salmon may not be the correct fish to pair with this dish. Perhaps a more neutral tasting white fish such as dory or sea bass will fare better.
We’re a family that believes in a dessert for every diner, and today’s dessert trio includes a chocolate cake (P75), lemon merenge (their spelling) pudding (P65), and a New York cheesecake (P75). Looking at the dessert display, I notice that what Paul Calvin’s Deli calls their paradise chocolate cake is actually Starbucks’ dome cake, and what constitutes their classic chocolate cake is actually Starbucks’ chocolate cake. The decoration and appearance of the aforementioned cakes is unmistakably that of Starbucks’ cake supplier. When asked who makes their cakes, the woman behind the counter (almost) defensively states, “Oh we make all these ourselves.” Sure you do. Take a look at Starbucks’ chocolate cake and tell me if it doesn’t look similar to the one above from Paul Calvin’s Deli.
I’m saddened by the lemon merenge pudding. An example of a good concept that’s gone awry en route to execution, it’s a mishmash of mashed bread topped with crumbly meringue. The lemon flavor is there, and it’s perfectly good, but I come away from my first bite feeling like there’s something missing here ”“ perhaps a good custard to moisten the dessert a little, or softer bread even, something that’s less rough around the edges, literally. As it is now, there’s not much that separates this dessert from an old sponge.
The New York cheesecake is the saving grace of the lot, and it’s also made by Starbucks’ supplier. It irks me when an establishment or a person passes off something as its or their own when it’s so obviously not theirs. It makes for bad kitchen karma, I tell you.
I really want to like Paul Calvin’s Deli, I do. Their servers are obviously eager to please, but my two visits don’t really shoot me through with optimism. Since it’s a deli, perhaps I’ll go back one day and try one of their sandwiches or their breakfast buffet that I hear is quite good, but I’ll stay away from the tapa.
Paul Calvin’s Deli
Unit F 111 Forbes Town Center, Rizal Drive, Bonifacio Global City
(632) 856 5900
I am looking forward that one day a very good food critic and writer will dine at my place.
Keep up the good work!
I wasn’t happy with my sandwiches from Paul Calvin too. I tried the turkey ham and the roast beef…both were dry and missing dressing. Disappointing for the price. They come with good sweet potato fries, though, so that’s at least a little consuelo.
How unfortunate… I was looking forward to visiting Paul Calvin’s Deli when I read about it in another blog. So far I have been getting mixed reviews. Thanks for the heads-up about the tapa and the desserts!
i suggested months ago for you to try angels kitchen in greenhills. pinoy food with a twist and then some . good to the last bite…from the complimentary toast & homemade dips, lovingly prepared dishes, decadent desserts and take out goodies.
it really pains me to hear you’ve been eating less than great stuff!
Hi Lori.
Thank you for a very honest and sincere feedback of a restaurant. 🙂
I’m often worried that food bloggers sugarcoat their words.
BTW, here’s a list of some goodies at angel’s kitchen:
melba toasts, chicken liver paté w/pistache…compliments of the chef!
salad w/ soft shell crab in mango dressing, garlicky chicken ceasar salad
pinakbet paella w/ lechon kawali…original but classic dish, very popular.
mandarin orange chicken, ostrich salpicao, dory w: asparagus & nori, sardines pomodoro, lamb curry w/ apple raisin chutney, baked salmon in aioli potato crust, beef pot roast, callos, lengua con setas among others!
chocolate lava cake, chocnut cappucino mousse, banana cream pie.
desserts are available in the gourmet counter. must try the homemade tuyo adobo in olive oil..i usually toss that with pasta. parang spaghetti botarga.
it’s a restaurant by mommies who cook…with TLC. bon appetit!
hey, Lori 🙂
thought i saw you and your hubby at The Podium last Tuesday. i was at the al fresco part outside the mall watching Julianne with some friends when i saw you guys… wanted so bad to greet you ’cause I’ve been reading your blog / site for 7 years now plus I even featured your site in my column at our school paper… nahiya ako lumapit! wah! hehe 🙂
anyway, this is a fantastic review! i’m drooling now just viewing the photos! 🙂
~ mJ ~
oh, that was a WEDNESDAY pala hehe 🙂
Hi Lori,
I must agree that cupcakes are not their specialty. But about the cakes, since their opening last November, a background check actually verified that they supply hotels, schools and hospitals with bread and yes, cakes. So I don’t think there is a need to import from Starbucks’ supplier.
The owner, Chef Joe, is actually a chef trained in New York. He’s teaching in a cooking school nowadays so Paul Calvin must have produced those cakes indeed. There were a number of times I even saw him icing some cakes at their second floor.
Their pastas especially Paul’s Pastrami may probably please you next time. But yeah, some bread items should be softer to the bite next time.
Try the neighboring establishments next time – Barcino may probably have the tapas the way you like it. Basilio’s may have the rice meal that would please your palate.
Oh, Lori! I SO feel for you! I got really sad when I read your review. Remember what I told you about me getting really emotional and upset by bad food? I am SO sad. : ( Since you write so well, I can really taste the food here. Sad, sad, sad. I hope they do something about their food because it would’ve been nice to have a small resto like that in the Fort area.
Hi lori,
I also had a bad experience with that deli. I’ve been in that place a few times just like you to see if the place really offers good food or if not i try the other products. I usually buy some breads to take home and for a couple of times i am so disappointed for the bread is already expired. I didn’t notice until i got home. I forgave them the first time. The next time i went to their place i was in a hurry and bought a set of breads to give as a gift and learned that again, some of the breads are expired. I never got the chance to tell this to the owner for i never came back to that place again. Another things is i agree with you, i believe that they don’t make the cakes for i saw another place selling exactly the same New York Cheesecake. Maybe they do make some of their desserts but obviously they don’t make everything. I just hope that they’ll improve the quality of food they serve.
Tried this last week and had a hard time looking for the place also. Their specialty 4/5 cheese pasta was so bland and it had hair in it! Good thing the owner was there and they replaced it. The food also took some time to come and it was just so-so. We ordered the pastrami sandwich and it was ok except that the bread was kinda tough. Maybe they used old bread. Not really something worth the price. Needs more work.