The plan is to eat durian multiple times a day for each day that I’m in Bangkok, and I discover that Or Tor Kor (OTK) Market is a fabled place where durian is available year round. Right across the infinitely more well-known and crowded Chatuchak Market, OTK has expanded into a rather high-end food hall. Holding its own along with the other great markets of the world, CNN has dubbed OTK as the World’s 4th best Fresh Market. It’s certainly a far cry from the Klong Toey market that I visited last trip.
Durian is abundant in Thailand from April to August but the supply of this king of fruits at OTK knows no season.
There are several stalls to choose from: the fruit beckons, begging to be fondled and then eaten. Surprisingly, there is no overwhelming durian odor, even my Bin seems to be unaffected. But perhaps he’s become immune to the odoriferous barrage.
At this stall, I watch as this petite woman slices the mighty durian husk with the greatest of ease…
…and then hands the whole lobe to another woman who gently wraps it in food grade paper. It’s mesmerizing to watch this process, it’s almost like a choreographed dance.
…The most popular stall is this one, Ta-Toy (Grandpa Toy). A durian seller for more than 15 years, all of Ta-Toy’s durian are grown from plots of land that he rents to farmers. Note the durian surplus under the table.
I buy a few lobes of Monthong and Ganyao from Ta-Toy and am disappointed that they’re not as enchanting as the specimens I have yesterday. They’re a bit too unripe for me and I regret that I didn’t ask for softer fruit. Still, am happy to have tried and the astounding array of durian in OTK has me giddy.
If you come here, have a meal at the food court. You’ll be spoiled for choice and you can indulge in all of your Thai food favorites.
And what do I do with the sticky rice and coconut milk that I buy from a vendor? Why, top it with some of the Ta-Toy durian that I buy, of course! Killer combo.
Or Tor Kor Market
6:00 – 20:00 (daily)
Kamphaengphet Road, opposite Chatuchak Weekend Market
MRT: Kamphaeng Phet. Exit number three.