
I’m absolutely giddy to be in Bacolod, the Philippines’ Sugar City. As per all my travels, I’m armed with my food research (codigo) and recommendations from DCF readers (thanks so much all, you know who you are!)
The new airport is in Silay City, a quick 20-30 minute drive from Bacolod. Since we’re already here [in Silay], we (my hosts, brothers Mike and Goey) and I make a quick stop at El Ideal, a bakery/landmark whose façade appears frozen in the 1920s, which was when it first opened. Characteristic of many more pasalubong shops I’ll encounter on this trip, El Ideal carries a staggering array of native sweets under their own label ”“ caramel boat tarts, empanadas, Negros’ famous piayas, and other confections with mellifluous monikers: baye-baye, butong-butong, etc. I snap a shot of El Ideal’s famous guapple pie but regret that I don’t get to try it.
My first impression of Bacolod is one of progress, with one foot in the urban, the other in the rural. Cars zip past sugarcane plantations on highways lined with trees, and I see the occasional palay being dried in the sun. What is incredulous to me are the mammoth trucks filled to the gills with sugarcane, an arrangement that looks haphazard but is undoubtedly steeped in science and experience. The trucks are on their way to the sugar mills to be processed since it’s almost harvest season. Coconut and rice are also grown in Negros, the latter of which I’ll get up close with later on (in Bacolod Part 2).
On the way to the hotel, our car passes by a truck loaded with some of the largest durian that I’ve seen anywhere. Noticing my wistful stare, Goey, who proves himself my valuable durian-comrade-in-arms, pipes up, “Let’s go see what they have!” Much to the chagrin of Mike, we come back weighed down with eight kilos of the pungent fruit, a veritable steal since each kilo is only P65! Soft and buttery, the fruit practically melts in my mouth and makes marvelous “messes” on my fingers.
I’m told that Aboy’s is a favorite place to take guests to, and this is where we have our first meal. Owned by Nestor “Aboy” Evaristo, the eponymous restaurant inspires manic lip-licking whenever its specialties such as grilled blue marlin, steamed mushrooms, squid all-fat special, and baked scallops are mentioned. Organized like a turo-turo, there’s a glass display of various seafood where diners can pick and choose, or for the ravenous, several chafing dishes hold already-cooked food ready to be scooped and served.
Carrying the native theme all throughout, Aboy’s is done up in wood and stone. There’s an air-conditioned eating area but since it’s totally occupied, we seat ourselves outside where it’s frankly, more windy and not as harried. Service is fast and efficient and before long, we’re digging in.
Most of my readers rightfully insist that I get the grilled blue marlin which is shown here as well as the steamed mushrooms (above). Cooked just ”˜til opaque, each bite of the marlin exudes some of the fish’s natural oils coupled with the tasty smoke from the grill. Wrapped in a banana leaf like the precious package that it is, the oyster mushrooms are redolent with butter, every substantial bite begging for another. Other dishes I try are scallops on the shell glistening in their orange roe and mighty prawns heated just a touch away from translucence.
I lean back in my chair, smiling the smile of the sated, rubbing my now-expanded belly. My hosts and their companions are all Bacolodnons, conversing in their province’s native Ilonggo, a dialect that’s gentle to my ears, somewhat singsong-like. When I express this thought, Mike leans over to me and says something that may have been menacing but could’ve been a lullaby for all I know. When our party sees my non-reaction to whatever it was that was just said, they erupt into laughter. “Lori!” somebody shouts. “Mike just said that he was going to kill you!” Finally understanding, I roll my eyes dramatically and punch Mike in the arm.
Yeah, Piaya
I find myself in a branch of Bong Bong’s sometime later. Like El Ideal, it’s bursting with sweets galore, although Bong Bong’s is famous for their thick(er) ube piayas. A piaya is an odd thing, an unleavened bread that reminds me of the crust of a hopia ensconcing its sweet muscovado filling. My piaya preference is for the chewy somewhat thicker versions, which this one from Bong Bong’s is. I’m told it’s better hot and I’m lucky that this store has a griddle from which piayas are scooped off the hot surface into the folds of a brown paper bag.
Visually, there isn’t much difference between Bong Bong’s ube and original piayas. They’re both dark and sweet, fine examples of the sugar that Negros is famed for. I eat my piayas while standing and since there’s nothing to prop them up, I shoot my photos while holding the pastries aloft in one hand. Frankly, it’s easy to plow through a pack of these ”“ thank goodness I only buy two pieces.
”Eat enough chicken to fly away.”
A Bacolodnon tells me that she eats so much chicken inasal she’s surprised that she hasn’t sprouted wings yet. Along with sugar, it’s this particular dish that Bacolod is known for, chicken grilled over smoldering coals sold everywhere from sidewalks to swankier spots. The secret, they say, is in the marinade, ordinary ingredients ”“ vinegar, sugar, calamansi, garlic, soy sauce, vetsin (popularly known as Aji-no-moto), and atchuete oil — combined in exact proportions to render extraordinary results.
It’s also the entire inasal experience that makes it so unforgettable, from the thrill of the grill to the banana leaf-lined wooden plates, to tweaking one’s dipping sauce of soy sauce, vinegar, and calamansi ”˜til it’s just as one wants it. The components of the dipping sauce echo those in the chicken inasal marinade, exemplifying its flavors. It’s at dinner tonight at Chicken Deli, while we’re busy pouring and squeezing in anticipation of the chicken that I learn a funny thing: “If you want toyo, ask for patis. If you want patis, ask for Rufina,” (apparently a popular patis brand of yore). My!
In less than a day that I’ve been in Bacolod, I’ve fallen hard for the sinamak ”“ “… say it like a local, Lori, ”˜see-NAH-mak’”, a vinegar kicked up with additions of finger chilies, garlic, ginger, and sometimes even sibuyas Tagalog (shallots). Depending on how long the mixture’s been aged, the flavor ranges from vapid to volatile. For me, there’s nothing like sinamak’s spicy slap.
As we eat our chicken inasal, I observe how, at a table of seven people, I’m the only one who orders a paa (leg) while everyone else orders pecho (breast). I ask if I’m the only leg lover (“… you all prefer boobs, yes?”) and amidst the resulting hoots, I’m told that more people like paa instead of pecho. Eh? I have yet to find one around this table or among the Bacolodnons that I informally poll during my trip. Anatomy aside, I like the flavor of dark meat better. I’m also fascinated by how some of us are eating with forks and spoons while others are using their hands with gusto. And of course, I keep quiet as those around me extol the virtues of chicken inasal in Bacolod, the likes of which, they say, will never be found in Manila. I happen to think J.T.’s Manukan does a fine job. But then again, I’m not a Bacolodnon.
My full day is beginning to catch up with me but I’m unwilling to spend my first night in sugar land sans dessert. Mike and Goey bring me to Kuppa (pronounced [some say] as KA-pa). One of the newer cafés in Bacolod, this place impresses me with its interiors, coffee paraphernalia, gelato stand, and most of all, their desserts. In my experience, café desserts are far from ideal but Kuppa proves me wrong. The peanut butter chocolate bombe (P85) is a study of two flavors blending harmoniously and is moist inside and out; the baked cheesecake (P85) with strawberry sauce is just plain cream cheese sweetened and bound with eggs and cream, with nary any gelatin to be found.
Since I want to sleep tonight, I settle for some chai tea (P65). We all do.
~~
Aboy’s Restaurant
GoldenFields Commercial Complex
Bacolod City, Negros Occidental
+63 34 435-0760
Chicken Deli
Various branches in Bacolod
Kuppa
#1 Tindalo corner Hilado Aves.,
Capitol Shopping Center, Bacolod City
+63 34 433.6562
I am so excited to read your next post. The long wait is over! I’m not from Bacolod but I truly admire them…their food and of course, Bacolodnons. For Chicken Inasal, I also like dark meat. I don’t know (and I can’t explain), I just soo love Paa.
Kaingit naman your piaya photo! Someday, I hope I can also try fresh and hot piaya from different makers in Bacolod. And speaking of Durian, how I wish I can just close my eyes and tansport to that truck.
You must ask you hosts to bring you to Felicia’s at 5th street. Their ensaimadas (available in the afternoons) is to die for. Try their Turron de Pili and their pili crumbles. Must not be missed….You have not tried piyaya until you try Bailon’s. You will be so amazed how they got it so crispy and thin with the coating of sugar glossy unlike others.
The Lumpia ubod of Emma Lacson as well as her empanada and panara are must tries. Enjoy what the place has to offer
I’m a regular lurker on your site, always lurking (drooling, too) and never commenting. Till now. I’m a Negrense but I have been away for 13 years now. When I see pics of inasal (I like pa-a, too, and isul (butt)), piyaya, bachoy, tambo, etc., I get downright homesick.
Everything in your post today looks so achingly familiar yet so far away. I close my eyes and I can remember what they (used to) taste like. Thank you for taking me back.
Cheers!
Hi Miss Lori! I love Bong Bong’s ube piayaya! My officemate usually brings this back as pasalubong from Bacolod and I am always a happy camper after eating some. 🙂
Lori! your post! gusto kog umuwi sa bacolod bukas mismo! ahaha
real food. love it.
I ♥ chicken inasal too! 😀 I usually get the pecho.
I like my piaya a bit thick too! I also love the butterscotch from bacolod (esp. the one w/ mango chips from Rgie’s) 😀
hey that chocolate bombe looks so yummy!
I’ve just been to Malaysia and I’m pretty sure (but can’t remember) – is Durian the fruit that has a really strong smell?
Andy – http://onceuponathyme.wordpress.com/
this is my list of all the things i really like in bacolod:
1. pendy’s – the angus tapa and the lamb with lychees – i think that’s a curry dish and most everything in the menu in the restaurant and the pasalubong section for the half moon, bailon’s piyaya (some people spell it piaya), the dulce gatas – I prefer the rich, creamy, runny version versus the dry, grainy type.
2. the inasal in BACOLOD CHICKEN HOUSE – that’s the best, for me, owned by the cajilis – in mandalagan, bacolod city
3. jp anglo’s asian restaurant called MU SHU (20th Lacson st)
4. the chicken sandwich, slightly grilled, of ROLI’s (sprinkled with a little black pepper – yum!)
5. and Lori, you will ABSOLUTELY flip in FELICIA’s (the pili crumble!! and most everything else on the dessert list) – and the gorgeous cakes on offer in CALEA!
6. Sweet Greens for the bottled pitaw and bottled bangus in olive oil. DA BES!!
When I was still in college, I’d get up in the morning, go to school (free Wi-Fi kasi) and check two blogs before anything else: dessertcomesfirst.com and marketmanila.com. But I always check out your post first cos I feel like I’m there when you describe your trips, your food discoveries and all the other experiences.
And finally, after searching for a fresh new post, this caught my eye. Finally, gastronomic experiences! I know I’m not your only market but I’d love to see more of these. Your critcisms, your amazement and whatnot. Because it’s all you.
Hi Lori!
My favorite dish from Aboy’s is this HUGE catfish head cooked “adobo” style. It is fantastic. This is one dish I DON’T like to share. To my surprise, I found out that Bacolodnons DON’T eat this dish. Weird. The reason why it is not well received by them is because the catfish is considered as a “dirty” fish. So, why serve it? Go figure. What even surprised me more was when a chef told me that this dish originated from Pampanga! Go figure more. I swear, the head is as big as a dog’s. And really tasty! My family calls the dish “The Anaconda”. Have fun in Bacolod.
I recommend you visit The Ruins (Lacson Mansion) at Talisay City
yes, i agree with you. i’m from bacolod and i daresay that JT’s Manukan has the closest, if not exact, chicken inasal taste that reminds me so much of home.
first time to visit your blog and i’m already loving it!
you can contact EL IDEAL #(034) 495 4430.
located 118 Rizal St. Silay City Negros Occcidental. Very near from the airport
I bet you ended your day FULL! Bacolod’s a home of FOOD!
Hi Lori, next time you visit Negros try to dig deeper within the food basket. Must places to dine:
1. Ken’s Place (Seafood resto by the sea) – Balaring, Silay City
2. Mila’s – Hinigaran
3. Ribs at Lord Byron’s
4. Cansi at Saning’s or Sharyns
5. Desserts at 1925 – Silay City
6. Seafoods at Imay’s 6th St.