Dessert Comes First

An obsession with dessert and other unabashed opinions of a food writer

Magnum White King
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Pancakes For The Weekend

posted by in Continental, Restaurants

At a party, we’re having dinner and talking about what we enjoy eating for breakfast. One of my companions waxes rhapsodic about the pancakes at Malcolm’s Deli. “They’re thick and fluffy,” she croons, then – lifting up her (now-empty) dinner plate – adds, “And they’re this big.”

That was stimulus enough for me. As you might know, breakfast is my most beloved meal of the day and weekends are a time when it becomes extra special. Pancakes are a particular favorite for me probably because they remind me of cake. I also adore pancakes because I never knew that there were so many ways to eat them. I enjoy the pancake sandwich at Pancake House and I make a mean oven pancake. Of course, plain pancakes are anything but, especially when they’re hit with a shimmering stream of syrup, maple, but most often, otherwise.

At Malcolm’s, they call their pancakes hotcakes, and you can get the eponymous Malcolm’s Stack (3 hotcakes, P280) or the Mini Stack (2 hotcakes, P230). I order the former and they are indeed, as my dinner companion mentioned, as large as a dinner – er, breakfast – plate. As promised on the menu, the pancakes come with their requisite partners of syrup and butter, but the butter is a cold block so I need to make do with butter bits as opposed to spreading it evenly. This is not ideal but it’s not bothersome either.

My first thought upon first bite is how delicious powdered sugar is on pancakes. Yes, I know I’ve smeared it with syrup already but the sugar shaken on the pancakes prior to serving isn’t just aesthetically pretty, it adds a varying component of sweetness. Very nice. The pancakes themselves are some of the best of their kind: golden-brown and glowing with a crumb that almost falls in on itself, it’s so soft but still firm enough to stand up to syrup and the prodding of a fork.

One thing I must say however is that these pancakes may suffer from too much baking soda. Some bites yield a sudden and unpleasant metallic tang, an indicator of an excess of this leavener, as indicated also by the very large holes on the pancakes’ surface. Baking soda is used to “lift” and lighten batters, making them tender, and is responsible for their nice golden color. This is not to say that these pancakes are inedible, heck, I’ll recommend them to anyone; this is just a slight hitch is all, and on the day I visit, someone in the kitchen might’ve been off with their measurements.

If you’re not a pancake person like I am, there are plenty of other options (P300/set) such as the eggs done your way paired with sides of bacon or a whole lot of Wagyu in links, tapa, or corned beef. What you see in the photo above is the Wagyu Corned Beef set. It reminds me of a classier version of the tapa in Tapsi ni Vivian, as it’s very tender and robustly beefy.

Malcolm’s also has omelets, French toast, healthier options like smoothies and oatmeal, and five – count ‘em, five – kinds of eggs Benedict (all P300) on its menu. Like any breakfast fanatic, eggs Ben is a benchmark for any breakfast place worth its eggs. Though I consider the variants with Wagyu corned beef (Irish eggs Ben), the one with mushrooms and sautéed beef (Malcolm’s eggs Ben), etc., I decide to stick to their version of the Classic with Canadian bacon, spinach, and onion. The eggs aren’t poached as skillfully as their counterparts at say, Apt. 1B – stringy edges, thisclose to overcooked, and the hollandaise sauce is a tad watery, but it’s all an honest effort and I appreciate that. The memorable thing about Malcolm’s eggs Ben is the ingenious addition of sautéed shallots. It cuts through the creaminess and cloy of eggs and sauce, clearing the palate for more.

Hmm, I’ve just gotten a text message that the pancakes at Charlie’s Grind & Grill are “… heavy but lovely and buttermilk-tangy.” Guess I’ll be having those soon.

~~
Malcolm’s Deli
Fairways Tower (same strip as Ristras and Joey Pepperoni)
Fort Bonifacio Global City
5th Avenue corner McKinley
(02)556.3188
Breakfast available from Monday-Friday, 7am-11am.
On Saturday and Sunday, breakfast is served all day (and night!) from 7am-11pm.

16 Responses to “Pancakes For The Weekend”

  • Yummy! Breakfast is my fave meal of the day :) and i won’t mind having breakfast food for lunch & dinner too!

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  • Yikes, Lori. Mega craving. Haven’t had breakfast and got to the office feeling hungry. After seeing these photos, I think “famished” would be more accurate :P The eggs ben look divine.

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    Maro Reply:

    So the “mega craving” persisted. I had Milky & Sunny’s Bananarama (pancakes, fresh bananas, peanut butter, crushed grahams!) for dinner :)

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  • i’ve never been a huge fan of pancakes. i always thought them to be too soft/soggy, especially after a generous helping of syrup. given the choice, i’d always have waffles instead. but i think i might have to try malcolm’s pancakes sometime. i doubt that it will make me love pancakes, but maybe i can gain some appreciation for it. (and, i want to taste pancakes with powdered sugar HAHAHA)

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    Lori Reply:

    Pancakes with powdered sugar was quite the revelation for me.

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  • Pancakes are my weakness… (knees buckle) And since The Fort is quite far from where I live, I have to settle for a stack at Charlie’s-Ortigas. Lori, you never fail to induce cravings! Can’t wait! :D

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    Lori Reply:

    I need to try Charlie’s pancakes. Will get back to you on this.

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  • Also try the fries and burgers at Charlie’s Grind & Grill! They also have great beers :)

    Thanks for sharing this Lori. Now I’m craving for pancakes for breakfast tomorrow.

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    Lori Reply:

    Gold-
    Of course I’ve had Charlie’s fries and burgers — many, many times. :) Superb stuff.

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  • Wow Lori, thanks so much for sharing this! Like you, breakfast is my favorite meal of the day. Let me miss those other meals, but not breakfast. Just to share a crazy secret, when I feel really good, I drive all the way to Tagaytay from Marikina just to have breakfast at Antonio’s. Hee hee!

    Malcom’s Deli, see you next week. Thanks again Lori! ;-)

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  • “At Malcolm’s, they call their pancakes hotcakes”
    – This reminded me of McDonald’s. A long time ago I ordered pancakes, the crew was quick to chime in hotcakes hehe.

    I still remember when the pale yellow butter for pancakes was in small scoops and placed in ice. I liked that butter, I felt it made the pancake taste better. I don’t care much for the syrup, since I just put a little bit for a hint of sweetness.

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  • Lori, I agree with you. The breakfast menu at Malcolm’s Fairways, particularly the pancakes are quite outstanding! But they really have to do something about their common bathroom because it is such a turn off…..Restaurants with not so clean and not so nice smelling bathrooms make my stomach turn. And I tend not to return to them afterwards not on the basis of their food but on the state of their toilets. If you like this type of pancake, please try the Buttermilk Pancakes at UCC One Rockwell. I promise you will like it, as well! :) Cheers!

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    Lori Reply:

    Tina-
    I’m glad you said something about this. Hopefully someone from Malcolm’s will see your comment. And thanks for the tip on UCC’s pancakes. I really should come out with a Perfect Pancakes post.

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  • Hi Lori, I’ve been to Malcolm’s Deli 2x in the hopes of trying their pancakes, but they were unavailable both times. I hope to be able to try them soon, and that they get to read your blog post and adjust the baking soda content! I’ve always been a sucker for pancakes, even those from pancake mixes. Where in your opinion can one find the best pancakes in Manila? Thanks!

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    Lori Reply:

    Hi Run Around Girl!
    As I mentioned in my comment on this post to Tina Vitas, I think i really should do a Best Pancakes post or something. IMO, I love the pancakes at Pancake House, Malcolm’s, and the ones at my house :p

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  • the best pancake i have tried so far is from bistro coron. when in coron palawan, it is a must try!

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