Based in Manila, Philippines, Dessert Comes First is a chronicle of the food-obsessed food writer, Lori Baltazar. This website is all about desserts, restaurants, coffee, and the pleasures of homebaking. Read more about me Croissant Contest
Fri, August8th of 2008
11:00 am
So, the deal is that I find myself eating croissants for breakfast at least once a week, usually on the weekends. Everyone is familiar with a croissant, its characteristic crescent shape and its ineffable flakiness achieved by “folding” layers of butter between layers of dough. A good croissant renders audible the crunch of each layer, the shattering of crumb as my teeth break through the crust, resulting in a clutter of crumbs of mouth and on table. There’s no other bread quite like it, it’s breakfast food par excellence.
Whether spread with jam or slathered with butter (as if there isn’t enough of it already in the croissant!) I usually end up starting my weekend making – as Winnie the Pooh’s friend, Rabbit, describes as – “magnificent messes.” And yes, I’d recommend to anyone that making a mess is a great way to start the day, weekend or not.
Croissants belong to the family of filo, strudel, puff pastry, Danish pastry, and brioche. They’re all made from the same basic ingredients: flour, liquid, and fat, but are handled in different ways. Croissant dough is essentially puff pastry that gets its lift from yeast and the steam in the butter’s moisture. As an aside, if made properly, croissant dough is given four turns that result in 81 layers. (Now there’s some food trivia for you!)
Because I’m eating croissants so regularly, I start comparing the different types available. By geographical default, I buy croissants from the stores that are easily accessible for me: the Peninsula Exclusivités, the Mandarin Deli, DeliFrance, and French Baker.
The croissants I procure at the four stores mentioned above are all treated in the same way. Heated in a standard toaster oven just to warm them up and then eaten plain, I grade them according to crunch, flakiness, and flavor. From this simple, highly unscientific test, my findings reveal that a croissant is not just a croissant, and the findings are quite surprising.
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- left: Delifrance croissant; right: Peninsula croissant
Delifrance
Price: P42/each
In France, there are two types of croissants available: “croissant,” and “croissant au beurre” (butter croissant), The former can be made with any butter substitute (margarine et al) and is thus, breadier and “straighter” than its butter counterpart. It’s what Delifrance’s croissant reminds me of. Longer and narrower in shape, its mere appearance almost disqualifies it from the contest (croissant means “crescent” after all). Possessing good crunch, that fact is negated by the large gap between crust and layer. There’s also a slight gumminess and doughy aftertaste. The poorest of the lot.
Score: 7/10
- cross-section of the Peninsula croissant (left) and Delifrance (right) croissant
The Peninsula Exclusivités
Price: P32/each
Short and squat, this croissant’s layers are more defined than that from Delifrance. Its crunch is satisfactory punctuated by a yeasty flavor. There’s a pleasant buttery aftertaste that I quite like.
Score: 8/10
French Baker
Price: P34/each
The country’s largest bakery turns out a very decent croissant. Almost perfect with its crescent shape, it has a memorable aftertaste, with layers that are clearly defined. It strikes a balance between yeasty flavor and a buttery mouthfeel.
Score: 9/10
Mandarin Deli
Price: P43/each
The Mandarin has the largest croissants in the country. Almost overwhelming in size, it packs a lot in terms of taste and texture, and impeccably shaped, its mass makes it the perfect receptacle for cradling a poached egg. Almost painfully crunchy, its layers are stark and separate enough to be counted. Truly, there can’t be a better croissant than this one. My favorite.
Score: 10/10
The honorary croissant
Ji-pan’s Monroe Bread, which gets its name from the legendary bombshell’s curves (I assume), is what I call the honorary croissant. Often described as “the inside of a croissant,” it’s buttery and leaves fingers and lips with an oily sheen. Toasted just ‘til golden brown, I love thickish slices of this bread paired with my homemade fabada (Spanish sausage stew).
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Like you, my wife loves her croissants. We usually buy ours at French Baker. And if she sees this, she just might drag me to Mandarin to get theirs! Thanks for the info!
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Comment by Rico — August 8, 2008 @ 11:48 am
I love croissant. The messiest ones to eat are the best! I love pain au chocolat even better. Or a toasted brioche with la vache qui rit (laughing cow) white cheese. simple pleasures…
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Comment by chip — August 8, 2008 @ 6:02 pm
Oh my goodness, the Monroe bread is to die for! Eating it is akin to eating a cloud. So soft and yummy! There’s a Ji-pan store just a couple of blocks away from my house and I have to exercise restraint with my consumption. If I have it everyday for breakfast, lunch and dinner, I’d be as big as a house!
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Comment by Lalaine Z. — August 8, 2008 @ 9:43 pm
love the Monroe bread! I always thought of it as the croissant in loaf form and would get my fix from their Landmark branch when I used to train at the Makati Shang. My bread of choice now here in HK is the milk bar bun from Wellcome and anything (but most especially the camembert loaf, doesn’t the name sound heavenly?) from Little Mermaid, this bakery found in City’super outlets. Oh and Lori I thought of you instantly when I saw this new place called Bread and Breakfast near my flat.
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Comment by ragamuffin girl — August 9, 2008 @ 2:35 pm
Wow. I must try the Mandarin’s croissants! My French colleague swears by the croissants and pains au chocolat at Lartizan Bread Shop, inside Mickey’s Delicatessen on Jupiter. http://www.lartizan.com.ph/
I haven’t tried Ji-Pan’s Monroe bread yet, but I’m looking for a quick local fix to that wonderful buttery bread loaf I had from Sunmerry in Tokyo. So far, I’ve settled for the premium toast at Bread Talk.
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Comment by Vic — August 9, 2008 @ 3:12 pm
I do love getting a couple of the Mandarin croissants, they crackle and make a delicious mess, dipped into hot chocolate for my Sunday breakfast. Ah heaven. And like Vic, I think you might enjoy the ones from Lartizan! I love their pain au chocolat.
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Comment by Mila — August 10, 2008 @ 7:22 pm
After a what, a year, the croissant post FINALLY comes out! Woot!
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Comment by Ian — August 10, 2008 @ 11:41 pm
I so so loooove monroe bread by Jipan. I eat this with pumpkin soup.
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Comment by bon — August 11, 2008 @ 9:50 am
Where is Jipan?
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Comment by melissa — August 11, 2008 @ 11:28 pm
I used to buy Monroe bread every week; good thing I broke that habit or I’d be a real butterball now!
I actually try to avoid buying croissants (though, a pain au chocolat once in a while is irresistable), in a feeble attempt to make my diet even an iota healthier. But thanks to you, I think I’ll be heading to Mandarin and Lartizan very, very soon…
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Comment by Katrina — August 12, 2008 @ 12:52 am
i love monroe bread! it’s my favorite
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Comment by via — August 13, 2008 @ 9:56 am
Lori :
We really are FOOD BUDDIES ! LOOOOOOVE croissants ! And I really eat them warmed in the toaster, then slathered with more REAL beurre ! Crazy yummy talaga!
Three ( for I-Love-Me !? ) Mandarin croissants in one sitting, is my idea of a great, last meal ( before they hang you for carb-fat overload )!
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Comment by Gina — August 13, 2008 @ 12:09 pm
The croissants at the Mandarin are just plain gorgeous! However, seeing how I’m usually on a tight budget, I usually get my dose of buttery crescents from either French Baker or Fortune Bakeshop. The latter look rather wimpy, but are so gloriously buttery that I only buy them once a week – otherwise, there goes my figure!
(Oh, and the pain au chocolat at the Mandarin? **swoon**)
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Comment by Midge — August 13, 2008 @ 12:15 pm
Hi Lori!:) Mitchie here from last Sunday! after years of lurking around, I’m finally going to make my first comment! Haha!
I do adore croissants!! they’re my weakness, have countless ways of eating them.. with cheeses, meat, smoked salmon and even just a spread of Nutella takes me to heaven! ugh.. My mouth is now watering..
With this article, Im compelled to go back to bread making and start with this one. wish me luck! love your photos btw.
Hope to hear from you soon!
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Comment by mitchie sison — August 13, 2008 @ 11:08 pm
where is jipan? puhleease:)
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Comment by van — August 14, 2008 @ 10:02 pm
Try the Cheese Loaf from Tinapayan Festival (I get someone to buy mine in Manila, but I think they have a branch in Market! Market!). It’s not a croissant, but it’s just as soft, melt-in-your-mouth, flaky/crusty as one. I can seriously finish half a loaf in one sitting. It’s light as air, so it seems like it’s calorie-free. haha.
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Comment by janine+ — August 18, 2008 @ 12:28 am
Jipan(Japanese bakeshop), i think is within the SM malls. I spotted one in the powerbooks area but I have not been to that mall in ages so not sure if it still there.
I love the Mandarin croissant plus their ensaymadas and danish selection. Truly world class. Aside from loads of President beurre, I also like it with Philly cream cheese or raspberry jam. Yum!
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Comment by irene lee — August 24, 2008 @ 6:37 pm
Jipan can be found at Glorietta, near the cloth stores & the escalators going up to the 3rd floor.
They also have a small store/stall in the Landmark food court area.
In Megamall, they are located just outside Toy Kingdom.
In madaluyong, their bakeshop is in one of the side streets near Shaw blvd. Lee or Calderon st. I think..
I discovered this blog just recently and I must say, the articles are very well written and the pictures truly do justice to the foods shown.
Thank you Miss Lorie!
Man, I’m hungry!
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Comment by hungry boy — August 27, 2008 @ 3:36 pm
I think the croissants in Lartizan in Jupiter is the best. They even have whole wheat croissants to remove some of the guilt from all that buttery goodness you’ll be consuming! It has the perfect flakiness and the inside is nice and chewy.
I wish I could have a croissant once a week like you! It’s definitely a must on those cheat days for sure. I eat mine with strawberry jam and St. Marcellin cheese from Santi’s. It’s the ultimate indulgence!
It’s my first time to really explore your blog and I must say, your food blog is the best one by far. As a huge foodie, I appreciate how you make an effort to bring the readers into your sensory experience. Everything looks so good! This will be my new favorite. Keep up the good work!
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Comment by Jill — September 4, 2008 @ 5:52 pm