Vancouver, Canada: Indecision at Granville Island
(last of 3 Parts)
Thu, September13th of 2007
9:32 am
Vancouver, Canada: Part 1
Vancouver, Canada: Part 2
Granville Island is my favorite place in Vancouver. The fact that it offers so much to visitors is only part of its enduring appeal: house galleries, artist studios, restaurants, theaters, pubs, craft shops, an art school, a cement plant, a hotel, and more. This once-declining industrial site was transformed in the late 1970s when the Canadian government decided to encourage newer, more people-friendly developments, a sort of urban renewal, if you will. They kept the original industrial look and the former warehouses and factories became this almost-city within a city.
For food lovers, the centerpiece of Granville Island is the Granville Island Public Market. Many say it’s one of the best all-around markets in the world, perhaps the most successful public market in North America. Part farmers’ market and part food court, it’s an epicurean enchantment unlike anything I’ve experienced before. Freshly-harvested produce still glistening with dew is lined up beside a scintillation of berries and grapes. Nearby, various vendors hold court over artisan cheeses, sugared nuts, breads with bubbled crusts and sharp slashes, maple syrups, and bakery items of every sweet persuasion. I’m especially enraptured by a box of heirloom tomatoes in odd shapes and colors, and through a somewhat filmy display case, gasp-inducing fillets of black cod and tuna. There’s seafood everywhere.
My senses are on full alert, every neuron in me is tingling intensely at this blitz of smell, sight, touch, and sound. And taste? I scout around, walking slowly like a beast in search of prey. I spy caramel apples, their shining exteriors pocked with chocolate candies awakens the child in me. Farther on, I see a bakery where pies, every flavor of my dreams, are lined up wanting to be ravaged by a sweet tooth. Beside it is a stall where colossal chocolate chip cookies, large as serving plates, proffer themselves with the sign, “Be a kid — have a big chocolate chip cookie.” I chuckle, which turns into a laugh, when beyond the counter I lay eyes on a pie heaped high, impossibly high, with a profusion of apples, its burnished crust hiding bumps and bulges of the treat within. I giddily imagine what a slice of that pie would look like.
It’s a problem of mine that when faced with the thrill of choice – too much choice – I tend to shut down. My usually decisive, determined self transforms into this glass-eyed, blundering fool who looks but never decides; desires but does nothing to turn destiny into reality. Lori the lamebrain, ack. What goes through my head at times like this runs along the lines of, “That’s way too big, how on earth am I going to finish that by myself?” or “Wait, I want this, and this, and that, and oh, this one too.” Madness it is. I need a stomach as deep as the Philippine Sea just to finish what I want to eat.
I take a time-out to grab a cup of coffee, although more caffeine is probably the last thing I need right now. With a cappuccino in hand, I continue to meander through the market, the low, squat frontages of the stalls hiding cavernous depths of untold delights. My brain has just about short-circuited with the possibilities.
I step outside to breathe, gazing up at the Granville Street Bridge and the boats nearby. In the distance, seagulls squawk. Numerous tourists pass me by, their hands (and mouths) full with food. Catching whiffs of assorted aromas, I envy their decisiveness. Ducking out of the market, I head to another building housing another cluster of stores. I lose myself in a kitchenware shop and then spend some time talking to the bookkeeper at the cookbook shop. I end up buying two cookbooks. Finally, decision! Sadly though, it’s not food.
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Based in Manila, Philippines, Dessert Comes First is a chronicle of the food-obsessed food writer, Lori Baltazar. This website is all about desserts, restaurants, coffee, and the pleasures of homebaking. Read more about me 


















Hey Lor,
What a great Canadian debrief!
That’s what caramel apples should look and be like. Our local caramel apples uses Fuji, not Granny Smith, and it makes all the difference! Though I like Fuji by itself, covering it with chocolate or caramel can make it sickly sweet. Having a tart apple like Granny Smith counters the sweetness.
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Comment by Jared — September 13, 2007 @ 10:28 am
Are those berries, are those really berries!!!:D
Wow….berries, grapes and fruits kebab!! I Love them…..
Your pics look GREAT!! Are you a professional photographer??
Very nice site:)
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Comment by Christy — September 13, 2007 @ 12:42 pm
I live in Vancouver and it’s really cool to see it the way that someone who doesn’t live here does. And see what kinds of goodies and things you’ve found that I might not know about!
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Comment by Ashley — September 13, 2007 @ 1:29 pm
Jared,
If you are referring to SANFO TREATS caramel apples, they also use Granny Smith if you request for it. And I think they also have them in their kiosks.
Caramel Apples can look like anything. There is no set rules for how Caramel Apples should look like. The one thing that it should be is good!
Some people like Granny Smith, others like Fuji. To each his own!!
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Comment by sanfo lover — September 13, 2007 @ 1:38 pm
hi lori! thanks so much for featuring vancouver! the seafood, the coffee, the markets… it never did occur to me to visit vancouver until i read abt it here. guess i’ll have to start saving up for my trip now *chuckle*
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Comment by Jun — September 13, 2007 @ 5:35 pm
WOW— what a site. Thanks for sharing. I will also like to share… my just published old new Military Wives Cook Book from 1973. open my web site http://www.haroldhester.com go to the book page and order as many as you like.. Harold
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Comment by harold hester — September 14, 2007 @ 2:58 am
aiyayayay, what a spread! Those plumb berries, the baskets of cherries (they look so big!), and the platter sized cookies! And I can only imagine the variety of cheese in that cheese display. And what I wouldn’t do to have those bookshelves for my library instead of the messy stacks. Lovely way to end the Vancouver series.
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Comment by mila — September 14, 2007 @ 10:59 am
Wow, I am really enjoying this blog. Thank you. Now I want to go to Vancouver. Am a dessert lover too and those caramel apples and caramel-strewn cinnamon rolls are to die for. Nice pictures too!
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Comment by jmgr — September 14, 2007 @ 4:31 pm
Yum!!! i like the fruit kebabs! and the fresh cherries! Can’t wait to go to Canada next year!
will try to go this market
[Reply]
Comment by jaz — September 15, 2007 @ 1:10 am
hi
lor,
Thanks thanks thanks for the visual tour….
i might not have the opportunity to visit this place but because of you i could do so , i love to visit market and places which show the day to day life and culture of people and blogs have helped me do it.
you write soooo… well that i dont miss reading your posts..
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Comment by MAHEK — September 15, 2007 @ 4:03 am
I live in Vancouver and Granville Island is a nice place to go to on a sunny weekend. I absolutely love Terra breads and you can get better candied apples from Rocky Mountain in Downtown.
I also lived in Seattle for four months this year and I can’t wait to see which food places you went to. I ate in new restaurants every weekend when I was there!
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Comment by Jenica — September 15, 2007 @ 12:23 pm
Oh, Lori, you really didn’t taste anything??? Bitin!!!
I’m notoriously indecisive — people I eat out with have accepted that I will always order last. But when confused by too many choices, I just give in to my gluttinous nature, open my other stomach, and try them all!
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Comment by Katrina — September 16, 2007 @ 4:16 pm
Holy cow! What a big c-o-o-k-i-e! And oh! I L-O-V-E love all the cheese and fresh fish cuts! Drooling…..hehehe!
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Comment by pilar — September 17, 2007 @ 1:03 am
Fascinating! Thanks for writing so vividly! I feel I got transported to Granville Island!
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Comment by annmariemarie — September 18, 2007 @ 3:10 am
I love the market at Granville Island. When I was there I must’ve tried out most of the food on display, and my waistline suffered the extra poundage. After my first visit I lived in Vancouver for half a year and didn’t enjoy my stay as much as the first time; I guess when you’re on vacation anywhere is paradise, but if you have to live and work routine and drudgery sets in. Your stories and pictures make me want to go back though, if only to recreate the sublime eating experiences I had on that memorable first visit.
In Tokyo the fruit kebabs are also as vibrant, sweet and larger-than-life. Gotta love places with an abundance of fresh fruit.
Can’t wait for your next post!
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Comment by ragamuffin girl — September 19, 2007 @ 12:50 am
no TORONTO in the itinerary???….Harummph!
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Comment by Junnie — September 20, 2007 @ 1:25 am
Hey Lors..
You’ve done an excellent job !
The food .. the scenery… the lifestyle in Vanc. are all very well captured!
There’s more to see & try on your next visit!
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Comment by mia — September 22, 2007 @ 9:34 pm
Hi, very nice photos. The caramel apples look so yummy. I’ve never been to a market in Canada, now, that you’ve posted it, I’ll definitely go straight to one when I visit again. And will include Vancouver in my itinerary. Thanks for sharing.
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Comment by Rowena — September 23, 2007 @ 5:33 pm
The berries… the shiny tomatoes… the giant cookie… and OMG, the apple mountain pie…
The salivary glands are way too overactive now.
Thanks for sharing your travels with us, Lor!
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Comment by ABi — September 23, 2007 @ 8:50 pm
Wow, look at the size of those cookies!
The berries look so pretty. I’m tempted to live abroad just for their markets– every frustrated chef/baker’s dream! Haha.
Looking forward to your Seattle post.
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Comment by Neen — September 24, 2007 @ 1:01 pm
Hi Lor!
I’m finally able to visit your website!
You are doing a gorgeous job!!!
I’ll visit regularly!
We need to catch up!
Love ya,
Beal
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Comment by Balat — September 25, 2007 @ 1:35 am