Saint-Tropez is a seaside resort town in the Provence-Alpes-Côte d’Azur region in France. It’s a haven for Hollywood stars and the jet-set since the 1950’s, owing to the yachts berthed along the quay and the strip of terrace cafés. Tourists stroll about people-watching and ogling the slow-cruising Ferraris and Porsches.

Here in Manila, a restaurant attempts to evoke that same spirit and joie de vivre. Aptly named Tropezz (tro-PEZZ), its owners describe it as a “friendlier Saint-Tropez, a place for parties, good food and music, a place beyond our imagination.” Located on the spot of the former Tavern on the Square, it’s a large place surrounded by glass. The dining area and bar is at the front while the larger space at the back is where bands jam nightly.

A restaurant and bar, owners Obet and Isa Pascual, Jiji Fernandez, and Alma Mallonga have put great care in crafting a menu that captures the pulsating island beat of Saint-Tropez. Pastry chef Kat Pascual describes it as “… international islands cuisine. But some people don’t get it, they say there’s no such thing,” she says, “but because we’ve been inspired by Saint-Tropez, it’s a fusion of French and Filipino with Asian influences. It’s a little of everything.”

A look at the menu renders amusing, witty names such as the Caviar de Ifugao (P160), shredded tinapa (smoked fish) beaten with cream cheese until of paté consistency and served with melba toast. The menacing sounding Crab attack (P160), are little crab cakes, croquettes if you will, kicked up with curry powder and mixed with béchamel before being shaped, breaded and deep fried. I laugh out loud when I catch sight of my Connecting flight (p170), two chicken lollipops facing each other end to end. Seasoned in an adobo marinade, this party favorite is dredged in chicken liver and breadcrumbs. The Cultured salad (P230) is next. A variety of greens, diced mangoes, shrimps, and cashews cavort in an impressive pesto-balsamic dressing that is at once subtle but hinting of spice. It’s ingenious.

(Note: The portions that you see in the photos are tasting bites, and much smaller than what is usually served at the restaurant. In addition, the combination plates shown above are put together solely for this feature.)

Twenty-something Booj Supe is the man behind Tropezz’s innovative cuisine. I don’t meet him during this visit but Kat and Isa speak highly of him. When I hear that Booj has been mentored by Chefs Ed Quimson and Gene Gonzales, I understand his propensity for the inventive since his teachers are trailblazers in that respect too.

A superstar on the Tropezz menu is the Belly Mucho (P280), pork belly (liempo) that’s been slow-roasted for at least three hours. In that quivering, melting stage, it’s then glazed with a mandarin orange and hoisin glaze. Yes, it’s that deliciously immoral, and best eaten by yourself or in the company of friends who won’t think it unusual that you’ve closed your eyes in ecstasy and are moaning softly. I, for one, am in the company of people I’m meeting for the first time and so I can only manage one bite lest I start moaning in euphoria myself. The Belly Mucho here is very similar to the pork belly with aromatic spices served at East Café.

Other bestsellers at Tropezz include the Fish out of water (P260), a Pinoy fish kinilaw (ceviche) soaked in vinegar and coconut cream then topped with chicharon and served with camote (sweet potato) chips. There’s also the Ravioli Bicolana (P160) where Italian inspiration meets Filipino imagination. Homemade pasta dough is fashioned into squares and stuffed with laing. The pillows are then deep fried and matched with shrimp in a coconut cream dip.

Creative thought embodies itself in the Spag Tropezz, (P220) my favorite dish of the day. Fish roe and onions are tossed upon a bed of spaghetti noodles and do the shakra with a funky dressing made from balsamic vinegar. Shrimp and shredded green mangoes add eye-popping zest while cherry tomatoes dazzle brilliantly like edible jewels. Hoo-ah!

Regaling me with tales of their own Saint-Tropez are owner Isa Pascual and her daughter, pastry chef Kat. They’re not eating much at all, to my dismay. “We’d rather eat at McDonald’s than eat our own food,” Kat jokes, although I’m not sure I believe her. I can see myself coming back again and again for this kind of food. In between bites, we’re sipping Tropezz iced tea, a raspberry flavored refresher that I like very much. I’m no fan of iced tea but this, this I like. Not overly sweetened like most other iced teas, every sip has me closer to believing that I could be on some happy island.

Upon hearing that Kat is a graduate of CCA (Center for Culinary Arts) Manila, I squeal in recognition since that’s the culinary school I attended too. We reminisce about terror chef-instructors and then rhapsodize about desserts. Having worked at Splendido in Tagaytay, Kat’s approach to desserts is homey and casual. “I don’t like making fondants or plated desserts,” she explains. “I get inspiration from comfort foods like peanut butter and make it artsy-fartsy.”

For Tropezz’s opening last February, Kat mulled over ways she could make cheesecake. “I wanted to make it mine, something different. I love cheesecake.” So she took the elements of that native summer chiller and made a ta-dah! Halo-Halo cheesecake (P110). Saba banana, munggo, nata de coco, ube, and pinipig converge at the corner of cheesecake and bliss. The cake itself is not too sweet, its creaminess made lively by the varying textures of the different sweetened toppings. I eat slowly, listening to the flavors announce themselves. All the elements of a great dessert, any great dish actually, are really just right there for one to discover and put together. And this halo-halo cheesecake is but an example that the spark of a culinary brainstorm finds its source in ingredients that are our very own. Halo-halo on a cheesecake? Who would’ve thought?

Equally ablaze by the power of imagination is the Pannacotta with buko, mango, and sago (P85), a custardy crossroads of culture. Says Kat, “Mango sago is Chinese, panna cotta is Italian and buko is Filipino.”

Of course everyone likes chocolate and for those who seek comfort in cocoa, the Original Sin has your name on it. An ever-reliable restaurant standby, it’s a flourless chocolate cake made, as Kat says, “… extra rich and extra sinful.” I certainly have no problem with that. And served with a swirl of caramel and chocolate sauce, sinning has never been so sweet.

Tropezz Restaurant & Bar
2/L Greenbelt 3,
Ayala Center, Makati City
(632) 757-4484

Open from lunch ‘til late with nightly bands beginning at 9pm.

Acknowledgments:
Special thanks to Bianca Fernandez, and Kat and Isa Pascual!