Based in Manila, Philippines, Dessert Comes First is a chronicle of the food-obsessed food writer, Lori Baltazar. This website is all about desserts, restaurants, coffee, and the pleasures of homebaking. Read more about me Blitzing Through My Baht in Bangkok (1st of 3 parts)
Tue, September 26th of 2006
12:20 pm
This looks like Manila
I’m in Thailand the day martial law is declared: Prime Minister Thaksin Shinawatra has been ousted by the military and the TV in the airport is flashing images of tanks on the streets and soldiers brandishing machine guns. I’m anxious about the political situation but all is quiet and relatively normal. It’s a holiday and shops are open. People are milling about like nothing’s happened. I overhear an Indonesian colleague of my Bin saying: “My god, the Thais are such a peaceful people. If there had been a coup in Indonesia, people would be protesting and burning tires in the streets!”
Seeing that I won’t have to resort to lounging beside the pool, I’m out of the hotel and on to the BST or Sky Train, the city’s extremely efficient mode of mass transportation. Thailand is roughly the size of France (514,000 square kilometers), possessing a wide range of topography. The largely benign climate blesses the country with a wide range of spectacular fruits and vegetables. Truly, the produce here is eye-catching and mouth-dropping: custard apples (atis) larger than a man’s fist and with hardly any seeds to boot; mangoes that look like small papayas; fresh dates still on their stems; and durian still in its thorny shell or peeled and being sold in plastic wrap.
mindlessly eating durian
I’m in love with durian, and I daresay that it’s my favorite fruit, much to the chagrin of my Bin. He stays far away from me as I ascend to delirious heights while eating it. Custardy and soft, the fruit has undertones of cinnamon and just a whiff of citrus.
The best tom yum goong in Bangkok
Eating is my main reason for traveling, along with immersing myself in the country’s foodstuff and seeing how it’s prepared. My first dinner in Bangkok is with my Bin’s colleagues, several of whom are Filipino expats. Eating with the “locals” is the best, and tonight they take us to Home Kitchen, a popular Thai restaurant.
Thai iced tea – could there be any better accompaniment to a Thai meal?
tom yum goong soup
The diverse glories of Thai cooking are influenced by China, India, and even Persia and Portugal. The country’s cooking varies by region, much like the Philippines and all share a memorably olfactory appeal. I swoon upon first sniff of the tom yum goong, a familiar Thai soup lashed with lemongrass, chilies, kaffir lime leaves, and galangal (a member of the ginger family). The soup is served in a pot similar to what is used for shabu-shabu; simultaneously hot, sour, and cool, I’m silent after each sip. Immensely flavorful food deserves that.
While pad Thai is a ubiquitous dish, it’s often difficult to ascertain whether I’m eating something authentic. But one bite of this dish leaves no question – replete with barely limp rice flour noodles, it’s a meal in itself with the bean sprouts, shrimps, tofu, and crushed peanuts. There’s an almost overwhelming but pleasant taste of lime accentuated by the sauce made from palm sugar, fish sauce (patis), and tamarind pulp. The big-flavor lover in me is lovin’ this.
I think of my dad whenever I eat oyster omelette because it’s his favorite dish. Unlike the usual eggy concoction, an oyster omelette has two types of flour added to it — tapioca and rice, which gives the omelette some bite. There’s also more oil added and seasoning to boost flavor. The oysters are plump, every bite a shower of brine and seawater.
selection of Thai sauces
Just like Filipinos, the Thais have a predilection for sauces. This little group here is waiting for us at the table, ready to be mixed and matched with the food. There’s nam pla, similar to the Philippines’ native patis; nam prik, its spicier version, chili sauce; and pickled cabbage to ease the burn.
leeks and limes
I’m also enamored with the saucer of tiny Thai limes. They look like our native calamansi but these are lighter in color with less seeds.
One sour dish follows another as the crispy catfish is served. Flaked and fried in a lattice, the green mango salad on top is a zingy partner to the crunch of the fish.
beware: spice bomb
And speaking of fish, it’s easy to be awed by the fried fish in chili-lime sauce. Sliced in sections so it “butterflies” when fried, it’s speckled with minced finger chilies and large garlic chunks. It’s deceivingly harmless: it’s crispy, firm-fleshed, sweet, and then… SPICY! Every bite renders a succession of mini explosions in my mouth, but it’s so good I can’t stop eating it even though my brain is screaming, “HELLO?!! We need water here!” Soon, my nose is running, my saucer-large eyes are watering, the top of my head is sweating – I’m frolicking in satanically spicy ecstasy and crying at the sheer deliciousness of this dish. This is a kitchen out of control.
To be continued…
Part 2 here
Home Kitchen
94 Langsuan Road, Lumpini
Pathumwan, Bangkok 10330
Tel: 0-2253-1888 / 0-2254-9888
Open daily, 8 am –12 midnight
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Hi Lori!
The tom yum goong soup looks yummy! Where in Manila can I find Thai food as authentic as the one you had there?
Thanks.
Francis
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Comment by Francis — September 26, 2006 @ 1:15 pm
Ah yes, yet another one of ‘em truly marvelous DCF posts
Congrats, Lor!
Btw, you should have immediately taken a sip of the milk tea to neutralize the spicy zing of the chilis
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Comment by awi — September 26, 2006 @ 2:32 pm
yay your back ahahahaha *starts reading again* I love thai food its the best! next to japanese ahahahaha
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Comment by Anonymous — September 26, 2006 @ 3:17 pm
me loves oyster omelette!
jenn
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Comment by Anonymous — September 26, 2006 @ 3:51 pm
Lori what type of durian are you eating there? Just curious.
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Comment by wyatt — September 26, 2006 @ 6:48 pm
Francis- The best Thai food in Manila, for me, is Thai Kitchen along Tomas Morato in QC. It’s right beside Shakey’s. It’s also SO affordable.
Awi You’re SO RIGHT about that iced tea. I didn’t even think about it while my mouth was on fire! (giggles)
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Comment by Lori — September 26, 2006 @ 8:08 pm
Hello lori, everything looks so yummy…but are’nt they all peppery hot?
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Comment by relly — September 26, 2006 @ 8:17 pm
Lori, Bangkok is a food lover’s heaven and haven. If I had to get stuck in a city and could eat everything, I would pick Bangkok and Paris. I am spending New Year’s with my family there so your blogs couldn’t have come at a better time. If you are ever in Bangkok on a Sunday at lunchtime, please splurge on the Buffet at the Spice Market Restaurant at the Four Seasons Hotel. Call ahead for reservations. It is the best 50 US dollars you will ever spend in your life! I guarantee it.
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Comment by tina, perpetually recovering ex-new yorker — September 26, 2006 @ 8:28 pm
wow, Bangkok will be my next Asian stop! Thanks for the info on the resto. By the way, I’m on a quest to find the yummiest lemon tart this side of China. Hope you’ll join me when you get to visit HK. Some memorable desserts were shared with friends last week: lemon tart of course, a Remy Martin chocolate creation, and a surprisingly good banana mousse cake which reminded me a bit of banoffee pie. Of course we remembered you! Faithful fans of your site
This Sunday I’m having dessert with friends at a famous HK place serving Chinese-style fruit-based goodies. I hope I remember to bring my camera this time…
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Comment by ragamuffin girl — September 26, 2006 @ 9:56 pm
Love that photo of you eating durian. You make me almost want to try it again – not a chance though! I’ve heard so much about Bangkok being a food-lovers paradise. I really need to visit soon! Welcome back, you were missed!
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Comment by christine — September 26, 2006 @ 9:56 pm
By the way, the best oyster omelet I’ve ever had in the Phils (apart from my mom’s)was from Fook Yuen in Banawe, rigt beside David’s salon. They have yummy crabs, fried frogs legs and pata tim too. Have you tried it there? Zero atmosphere, good food, wallet-friendly prices. The omelets in Singapore, where I wolfed down a 10-inch one (HUGE), were pretty darn tasty too. THe ones here in HK I don’t like.
The flavor and “bite” is different. Gotta try the Thai one, I love eating the same food from different countries.
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Comment by ragamuffin girl — September 26, 2006 @ 10:02 pm
The Oishi Buffet in Siam Discovery Center is fab as well!
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Comment by renee — September 26, 2006 @ 11:44 pm
That catfish looks incredible. All of the pics have my tummy rumbling!
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Comment by Abby — September 27, 2006 @ 5:45 am
Bangkok has so many memorable places to eat, everytime I go, my Thai friends have new discoveries to take me to, and they always taste amazing, even the simplest cafes can be magical. Looking forward to seeing more of the mouthwatering photos. I may be going to Bkk soon to visit some friends and shop at the markets.
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Comment by Mila Tan — September 27, 2006 @ 8:47 am
Instantly brought back memories. Dinner at the Royal Dragon ( they claim it’s the world’s biggest restaurant – where the servers are in roller skates ) was an experience for me. Loved their sauteed spicy crabs in coconut milk – to die for! Have fun!
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Comment by Laura — September 27, 2006 @ 11:10 am
Hi Lori! I recently wen to Bangkok and aside from being the ultimate shopping paradise, I was also overwhelmed with the myriad of food choices in the city! Looove their green mangoes with the spicy salt and almost all of the sidewalk treats I tried! Did you eat at the Coco Wali Buffet? It’s similar to the shabu-shabu in Japan.. Fashion and good food… Simply the best of both worlds!!!:)
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Comment by Honey — September 27, 2006 @ 11:58 am
Hi Lori! I recently went to Bangkok and aside from being the ultimate shopping paradise, I was also overwhelmed with the myriad of food choices in the city! Looove their green mangoes with the spicy salt and almost all of the sidewalk treats I tried! Did you eat at the Coco Wali Buffet? It’s similar to the shabu-shabu in Japan.. Fashion and good food… Simply the best of both worlds!!!:)
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Comment by Honey — September 27, 2006 @ 12:00 pm
you really have to go try the sidewalk eateries for mind blowing thai food. there’s great seafood in chinatown (yaowarat rd)….on the sidewalk. and one in silom rd as well. there’s a local restaurant located in an alley of khao san rd called “tom yam kung”. an all white converted house frequented by locals. its a backpacker’s area, so lots of things to see as well.
mila, have your thai friends brought you to Thip Samai/”pad thai pratu pee” (on thanon mahachai)? the locals regard it as the best pad thai place in town. and there’s always an old woman outside that sells one of the best mango sticky rice i’ve tried. salted beans on top and all. the works. cheap eats!
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Comment by anonymous paul — September 27, 2006 @ 12:28 pm
For those in the Philippines, a great THai carinderia (i say carinderia because you literally eat on the street) is just off Rockwell in MAkati. Its called Som’s Noodle House along Algier Street (near the old Makati Dog and Cat Hospital). Their red curry is sooo good, they have Tom Yum, Pad Thai, really good Garlic shrimps and also super spicy papaya salad. Reminds me of Bangkok everytime i eat there. AND, Som’s Noodle House recently opened a branch on Reposo Street ,if you are hesitant to eat ala BAngkok sidewalk style =)
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Comment by tin — September 27, 2006 @ 10:51 pm
Your eating durian reminded me of the first time I ventured to eat Thai durian. I had to bring the stuff, bought from an ambulant vendor, to the hotel roof top so I could eat in peace. It was a mind-boggling sensation, difficult to describe but ooohhh so delicious!
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Comment by Rowi — September 27, 2006 @ 11:10 pm
there’s also a thai carinderia in UP. Its along the MWSS road, sa likod ng Center for Islamic Studies. Great thai food iyun for UP peeps.
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Comment by kurokuroko — September 28, 2006 @ 2:56 pm
Thai food’s one of my faves! We’d go foodtripping whenever we visit BKK!
Pad thai, chicken satay w/ peanut sauce, lemongrass chicken and tom yum soup! Of course, mangoes & sticky rice for dessert! *burp* =)
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Comment by chick — August 19, 2007 @ 8:18 pm