Based in Manila, Philippines, Dessert Comes First is a chronicle of the food-obsessed food writer, Lori Baltazar. This website is all about desserts, restaurants, coffee, and the pleasures of homebaking. Read more about me Lolo Dad’s
Tue, August9th of 2005
11:42 am
This is one restaurant that elicits the very same reaction whenever it comes up in conversation: “Lolo Dad’s? Oh, it’s very expensive there!” Run by husband and wife team Chefs Ariel and Mia Manuel, the restaurant is a converted ancestral home. Lolo Dad is actually Mia’s father, Atty. Conrado “Dodo” Ayuyao, a gourmet who also used to hold office where the restaurant now stands. Predominantly French, the menu changes depending on what’s in season.
I have always thought of Lolo Dad’s as my Holy Grail of restaurants, akin to eating at Thomas Keller’s French Laundry or Daniel Boulud’s namesake café. Lolo Dad’s is already five years old, yet I have never even so much as set foot on the premises. Indeed, it may be the most expensive restaurant I know of in Manila. As I was soon to discover, however, there is great reason for and value (believe it or not) behind such exorbitance.
My dad celebrated his birthday dinner with the family at Lolo Dad’s, and it was a first for all six of us, plus a friend of the family. “Mom’s paying so order whatever you like,” Pa told us. “I told Papa that I’ll order and pay for him so that he won’t get shocked and lose his appetite,” added Mom, grinning.
Lolo Dad’s menu is selective. There are six appetizers and 12 entrees – six each for meat and seafood. Clearly, owner-chef Ariel Manuel focuses on what he knows best. Our party ordered two of the most popular starters, beginning with the double espresso soup (P280+), individual cups of creamed tomato and mushroom with fleuron. Fleuron are normally tiny, crescent-shaped pieces of puff pastry used as a garnish atop hot food. In this case, however, the puff pastry was transformed into light bread sticks, to dip into or to eat along with the soups. Slick and silky, each spoonful coated the tongue, leaving a path of warmth as it coursed down the throat. “I’ve never had soup like this,” my sister murmured, eating her soup as if in a trance.
This was the soup.
At first, ordering the French Moulard duck foie gras was an outrageous thought I flirted with. At P1,490+, it definitely gave cause for pause. “But when will we be here again?” my Bin asked me as I pondered the matter, but not for too long.
I gingerly bit into the foie gras, my teeth shattering through its crispy outer coating. The gates were opened and out roared the glorious flavors of butter and earth. It didn’t matter that it was fattened duck liver. It didn’t matter what it was. Time seemed to suddenly slow down. In my mouth, it quivered and then with a final shiver dissolved, leaving the essence of itself behind. Between bites, I nibbled on the assorted salad greens and poached pear, dipping them alternately in the balsamic vinegar dressing that had been cooked down until thick and sweet, its richness creating black trails on the white plate.
This was the foie gras.
The kitchen must have expected that we’d be so enchanted with our first course that it took them quite some time to bring out the entrees. But first, redemption arrived in a teapot. To cleanse the palate, we were each served some homemade raspberry sorbet, ingeniously served atop a little smoking teapot. I delighted in lifting the lid and marveling at how one shard of dry ice could produce so much smoke.
And then came the Herb de Provence crusted rack of lamb (P1,440+) its bones resting gracefully like a satisfied samurai crossing his arms. Sliced thickly, pinkish in the middle, with a tenderness giving way to the grip of teeth, this is what lamb should be. But I learned there had to be a balance of tastes; cutting too much of the lamb from the side would yield a salty piece. I learned to balance a portion of lamb with the melted garlic-tomato confit, letting the flavors dance and play in my mouth with the blue cheese risotto. My eyes close automatically: any sense more than taste is too much when my mouth is filled with such a harmony of exotic flavors.
This was the lamb.
The Black Angus beef tenderloin (P1,150+) was superb. Snagged on a bed of what was described as inflated potatoes, caramelized onions, and cépes mushroom sauce, it was a pronouncement of succulence. The dish was flourished with cubes of bone marrow, which I wish could’ve been heated more as they were tepid – the only blemish on an otherwise stellar plate.
This was the beef.
And so, on this evening at Lolo Dad’s, I finally drank from my Holy Grail of restaurants. As I ate, I deconstructed each dish, using all my senses – touch, sight, sound, enjoying it all with abandon. When it was over, I wanted to weep because there was no more to eat. When it’s over, it’s over. I relish that experience of savoring every moment. Now all I can wish for is more.
Lolo Dad’s
899 President Quirino Ave.
Malate, Manila
524-2295
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I have only been to Lolo Dad’s once, but it was love at first bite…mainly because of the foie gras. You description of the foie said it all! You put into words exactly how I felt when I took my first bite. So far it’s the best pan seared foie gras I’ve had here…and the biggest portion. Sigh…daydreaming of it now…
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Comment by joey — August 9, 2005 @ 1:30 pm
Thank you for those wonderful details, Lori. My friends and I have been planning a dinner at Lolo Dad’s for a few years now. At least we can plan better (and save up!).
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Comment by Mila Tan — August 9, 2005 @ 1:54 pm
to add to my list of things to do this year: for, like, a month, become the boy toy of a rich old bading so he can treat me to dinner at lolo dad’s. then break up with him. LOL
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Comment by awi — August 9, 2005 @ 3:18 pm
I’ve always wanted to eat there — but the opportunity never presented itself. I actually felt so terrible about my recent CFA exam I told my parents if I pass I’m treating my entire family of 8 there. (Results come out end-August).
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Comment by wysgal — August 9, 2005 @ 4:07 pm
Haven’t been to Lolo Dad’s in a couple of years. Glad to see it’s thriving… Speaking of sinful, the first time I ate there, we had the foie gras appetizer and the duck confit (which was served with foie gras mixed in rice)… absolutely sinful!
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Comment by Ton-ton Yulo — August 9, 2005 @ 7:03 pm
I have never been to Lolo Dad’s.
After seeing the prices, I doubt I ever will! Unless I happen to win the lottery. My economist parents will NEVER agree to taking us.
But the food sounds so yummy.
The last time we ate this way, it was in Europe, it was fondue, it was beef, it was wine, it was heaven. And ironically, I think I spent less there that you might’ve spent in Lolo Dad’s.
But gracious, that food sounds so good that…
I think I might eat there. Without having to win the lottery.
~Mahar
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Comment by Anonymous — August 9, 2005 @ 11:58 pm
Their halibut and scallops combo is also delicious. And the ambience of that place is fantastic, the service impeccable and they don’t charge corkage and even welcome your bringing in your own dessert (like a birthday cake!). Parking is a little tight however but easily forgiven because of the unbelievably delicious food.
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Comment by Anonymous — August 10, 2005 @ 10:25 pm
I haven’t been to Lolo Dad’s in ages.
The extensive appetizer sampler has been worth dreaming about, though.
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Comment by Midge — August 11, 2005 @ 7:44 am
wow, what a post! it *almost* makes me want to go home.
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Comment by stef — August 11, 2005 @ 7:20 pm
How dull my life would were it not for your blog, Lori. I’ve only been to Lolo Dad’s once – not only is it expensive but the location’s awful, but I digress . . . I had the degustation. I remember everything to be uniformly excellent, from the soup to dessert + I like the fact that the place (then) could only take 30 covers. They know when to fuss, when to leave you alone. And since we’re on the subject of expensive meals, you might want to try GADDI’S AT OLD MANILA at The Pen (shameless plug this one). It ain’t cheap but, boy, is it good. My phone’s down so you’ll have to call me at the office for the ume being: 843-6305.
MG
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Comment by Maning G. — September 6, 2005 @ 11:16 am
Very nicely written food review. Makes me want to come back and see what I missed. Let me share my Lolo Dad’s experience thru this link:
http://www.thelonerider.com/2005/aug/lolodads/lolodads.shtml
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Comment by TheLoneRider — September 30, 2005 @ 10:52 am
you apparently went on a good day. i’ve been to lolo dad’s mga 3,4 times before and i liked what i had each time i did so i didn’t have any qualms about bringing my cousin and his new bride over for dinner. it was my wedding treat for them. i recommended some fish dish for my cousin, and steak for my cousin-in-law. i had lamb kebab. and it was HORRIFIC. so hard, my teeth almost broke from masticating that awful meat. i asked for the manager. not in. i asked for ariel manuel. not in. what about the sous chef? not in. what did that tell me? when the chef’s out, the kitchen slips. for all the amount of money i paid that night, i could’ve just brought my guests to prince albert or to tonyboy escalante’s antonio’s (ALWAYS CONSISTENTLY EXCELLENT!) or Humphrey Navarro’s P45 (Samat St., Mandaluyong)or it’s bistro restaurant in Greenbelt, Bistro Magnum (new, much more focused, delicious bistro cuisine)and i could’ve gotten more bang for my money! haven’t been back since then and it’ll take some time before i go back and give that establishment another chance.
by the way, i like…no…LOVE your notes on food and restaurants. keep it up!
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Comment by Anonymous — March 21, 2006 @ 2:33 am
AFTER HAVING A DISAPPONTING DINNER AT LOLO DAD’S SOMETIME LAST YEAR, I ORDERED THE ANGUS-RIB EYE, WHICH WAS DRY, SERVED ALMOST COLD, HAD A FEW SCARCE DROPLETS OF SAUCE, I THOUGHT THIS YEAR I WOULD GIVE IT A TRY AGAIN.
TO BEGIN THE DINNER THEY SERVED BREAD, ROLLS AND BAGUETTES THAT LOOK AND TASTED LIKE THEY HAD BEEN HEATED OVER AGAIN. THE BREAD WAS DRY AND UNFRESH.
TO MY DISMAY, THE APPETIZERS & MAIN COURSE WAS JUST OKAY, AND THE SERVICE WAS SO SO. THE MARINATED PRAWN W/PROSCIUTTO SALAD WAS DISSAPOINTING. THE PRAWNS CAME SERVED AS SMALL SHRIMPS THAT WERE THREADY AND OLD LOOKING, DEFINITELY NOT FRESH, AND I COULDNT BELIEVE THAT THEY EVEN SLICED THESE MINI-SHRIMPS IN HALF, THEY COULDNT EVEN GIVE THE FULL-SIZE SHRIMP EVEN AT THE ASTRONOMICAL PRICES THEY CHARGE. THE PROSCIUTTO WAS SALTY & TOUGH. THE ARTICHOKES WERE SOUR. I also think the menu said that the salad had melon, they actually served it with watermelon. So the sweet and sour tastes mixed in with the wine vinegar, were battling in my taste buds leaving it confused.
The lamb we ordered came with a Blue Cheese Risotto which overpowered the taste of the lamb.
The foie gras we ordered as an appetizer (at P1,400plus) per plate was overcooked, over-charred that you could taste burn parts on the outside, destroying the delicate flavours of the foie gras on the inside.
The veal was served medium rare but cold, room temperature. I told the waiter to have it re-heated, the veal came back to me well-done, with the salpicao bits around it over-cooked, salty, & hard.
The dessert, Parmesan Ice cream with stuffed caramelized dates was the worst dessert I have ever tasted in my life. The parmesan ice cream had such a powerful parmesan taste that you could not even taste the ice cream anymore. The caramelized dates, as I bit into them were stuffed with a blue cheese like syrup. It was so awful, we were all at the table spitting out the stuff into their napkins.
To make things worse, the waiters have no sense of warmth or care for us paying customers. They would just plunked the food down in front of you without saying what they were serving. We complained about the dessert which was inedible, they just said that it really tasted that way. They didnt even bother to change it. They also charged us for the dessert that we disliked so much.
Bottom line is, for these high prices and mediocre service, I will never go back again to Lolo Dad’s.
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Comment by Anonymous — July 22, 2006 @ 2:10 pm
went there for my dad’s birthday a few years ago, extremely over priced, especially the seafood soup which was flavored with tinapa. Seems to have a lot of foreigners dating their hookers for the night. The bread served was not even warm. After a while you see all their kitchen staff smoking outside and handling you food with their bare hands, That’s probably Where we got the smoked flavor for out soup. Maybe it was just a bad day for us. Or They probably pay a lot for their PR.
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Comment by eric — October 9, 2007 @ 4:59 pm
We ate lunch at lolo dad’s today. the food was normal but overpriced (except for the mango with mascarpone, which was really good), and their service was bad. I cannot see how people would want to have their memorable moments there. A big cockroach crawled down from the ceiling, and the waiter only noticed it after we screamed. he then gingerly picked it up using a– horrors! a table napkin- not the paper kind, but one of the cloth napkins he picked up from one of the vacant tables! A few minutes later, a waitress tripped and managed to pour an entire glass of iced tea on one of my officemates. She did not even apologize, nor help my officemate.as the other waiters were the ones who assisted my friend. Finally, when the bill came, the waiter told us that they do not give senior citizen discounts on their degustation, because it was a “set meal”. The Senior Citizens Act certainly does not make set meals an exception to its coverage! Good thing our boss (who paid for the lunch) did not anymore contest this senior citizen discount thing, but we minions wanted to write a formal complaint (with us being lawyers and all..)
I was expecting to be impressed by Lolo Dad’s. It didn’t happen. I hope that this comment reaches Lolo Dad’s. The staff should be reminded that they are not only in the business of selling good food, they are also selling good quality service.
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Comment by jane — October 16, 2008 @ 11:02 pm