Based in Manila, Philippines, Dessert Comes First is a chronicle of the food-obsessed food writer, Lori Baltazar. This website is all about desserts, restaurants, coffee, and the pleasures of homebaking. Read more about me Durian Divine
Tue, July19th of 2005
4:10 pm
-Bayard Taylor (19th-century American journalist)
Whenever there’s a durian in the house, I’m always a little happier because the pleasure of eating it is something to look forward to. It always needs a few days to ripen when I buy it from the supermarket. For each day that it sits on my counter, I coo at it like a mother hen, watching, waiting, touching. When the smell is at its strongest and the spines are more flexible, that’s when I open it.
To eat a durian, oh! There is no comparison in the world. Its taste is at once custardy, its texture creamy, and its consistency is delicate. Because I’m the only one who eats durian in my house, it’s a solitary activity. Better that way, so that I don’t have to share and so no one can hear my moans of unrestrained pleasure nor smell my durian-scented burps.
The durian lowdown
Durians grow on trees in moist, tropical climates throughout Southeast Asia, with Thailand being the motherlode in terms of production and varieties grown. The trees themselves, sometimes as tall as 130 feet, are pollinated by bats. Three to four months later, the fruit, each weighing several pounds, plummets down, (hey, you could kill somebody!) already reeking with its characteristic aroma. Some varieties of durian however, are always cut from the tree while still green and allowed to ripen off the tree. (Most Thais consider a “naturally-dropped” durian already past its prime).
I used to think that durians were seasonal, but they seem to be available for a good part of the year here in Manila. Durians are expensive, (the priciest I’ve encountered is P129/kilo!) and purchasing one is a solemn, touchy-feely ritual. It’s 
only by odor that one can determine whether a durian is truly ripe – or not. They say that the flesh itself is regarded as an aphrodisiac, although I don’t subscribe to that kind of hearsay since it has the opposite effect on my Bin. (!)
For many Asians, this thorny, football-size fruit, divinely lustrous, yet potent in odor, is as much a cultural icon as it is a treasured, eagerly anticipated food. The durian’s otherworldly flavor and smell still remain a unique experience of the East.
Believe it or not, the durian is highly nutritious, a complete natural meal in itself, high in carbohydrates, proteins, fat, minerals, and vitamins. The exact nutritional composition of a ripe durian can vary greatly, depending on soil richness, growing methods, climate conditions, and variety. The range of nutritional values for 100 grams [about 3½ ounces] of the fresh pulp are:
calories 134-153
carbohydrates 30.0-36.1 g
fat 1.2-4.3 g
Leaving a scent behind
After all the eating is done, there’s the problem of removing the smell from my fingers. Plenty of durian lovers swear by washing their hands with durian seeds. I’ve tried it, and it doesn’t work for me. Like the durian, the smell stays with you, and like the taste, it’s out of this world.
Additional information:
Many thanks to Nirav for most of the information in this post, as well as the awesome cover photo. If you’re a lover of durian, check out his Durian Palace!
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You’d get along with my dad. It’s thanks to him that I’ve experience durian ice cream, pastillas de durian, and durian salad.
My family doesn’t really like it, but all of us have a weakness for durian chips. Those chips are evil, mind you. Extremely addictive and VERY fattening to the uninitiated.
Do you miss Magnolia’s Durian Delight ice cream, though? I don’t. But I really like the Thai durian ice cream with nata de coco bits. Now that’s yummy.
~Mahar
[Reply]
Comment by Anonymous — July 19, 2005 @ 9:56 pm
I love durian. It’s one quirk I learned from my mother.
A few years ago, I tried an ‘odorless durian’ in Bangkok. The taste was just as heavenly but somehow the experience was not complete.
[Reply]
Comment by c — July 19, 2005 @ 10:50 pm
I’m glad non-Asians enjoy durian too! It’s the King of fruit in Singapore and I loove it! I hope you did not stop at one – I can eat 6-8 seeds at one go. A tip – freeze the seeds whole. Just about 15 mins before eating, bring down from freezer at room temp. Now you have a icy-cold creamy instant durian icecream!
[Reply]
Comment by galinusa — July 20, 2005 @ 2:39 pm
Mahar-
I really do prefer it fresh as opposed to processed.
Many people who dislike durian tell me that they can eat the pastillas. To that I say, “if you can’t eat it fresh, then it’s not the real thing!”
C-
An ‘odorless’ durian?? I can’t imagine how they would do that. You’re right — the experience would be incomplete. Although after being exposed to durian for so long, I think I’m immune to the smell already. I know my husband tells me so!
Galinusa-
Which non-Asians were you referring to? I’m Asian.
Seed for seed, I think I could consume as much durian as you.
BTW, I’ve also tried that instant frozen durian ice cream. So good!
[Reply]
Comment by Lori — July 20, 2005 @ 4:34 pm
It’s not washing with the seeds that removes the smell–you’re supposed to pour water into the remaining skin halves and use them like finger bowls.
But this itself is hearsay–I can’t stand the stuff, but the rest of my family are raving durian maniacs. So you might want to put some faith in their declaration.
[Reply]
Comment by Mike — July 20, 2005 @ 11:19 pm
We definitely agree on the score that fresh durian tastes best – and the heck with the smell. ^_^
The Golden Pillow durian of Thailand is supposed to be the world’s best, but I think the newer varieties they’re growing in Davao these days can give them a run for their money. The texture is just so creamy and the taste is like the richest custard topped with fresh-roasted almonds!
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Comment by Midge — July 21, 2005 @ 8:24 am
Cool, I’ve never seen the inside of a Durian before.
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Comment by Ben — July 23, 2005 @ 5:53 am
Try taking durian with fresh coco milk. its another experience with durian. They make durian pie in Davao. Can you get the recipe?
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Comment by winda — July 28, 2005 @ 10:26 am
I’ve gotten hooked on this fab fruit thanks to my boyfriend, whose family is OBSESSED with this. When they get their durian from Davao (sans shell — they put it in tupperwear and seal it with packing tape that th smell doesn’t leak) they distribute it equally and eat it all at the same time. Imagine a card dealer dealing cards, they’re like that! They even have rounds. They get one seed per round until they finish the entire container. They even have rules for disqualifications!
Personally, I like tyane -imported version, the one with yellow meat (I don’t know how it’s spelled) better than the local (whiter meat), but the people from Davao won’t even touch the thing. For me, tyane’s less bitter than the local one, but for my boyfriend, it’s the bitterness that makes durian great.
[Reply]
Comment by Isa — August 18, 2005 @ 1:04 am
Wow! I’m amazed at how glorified durian became in your blog page. At last! I have been a reluctant durian eater up until 2002 when I moved to Gen San. Something about “fear of the unknown” especially with the bad wrap about its smell and all…But it all changed when I was forced to taste durian as a show of courtesy to our then dinner hosts. Suffice to say, I’ve been a durian lover ever since. I balked at the price of durian there in Manila. I hate to make you feel bad by telling you that durian here sells for P25-40/kg. So, it’s pretty much eat-all-you-can here. (In fact, there’s a resort that has an eat-all-you-can durian promo for P99). Try to visit Gen San sometime (not only for the tuna but also for the durian).
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Comment by Cathee — August 28, 2005 @ 5:54 am
Lori!!! I am SO happy to know that you also love durian!!! Try the S-7 and S-1 variety grown by Jill Sandique’s family in Cotabato and the ECJ (Cojuangco) durian! Oh wait, maybe I can give you the ECJ when it’s back in season. I hope your Bin wouldn’t mind if I bring it to your place! Yahooo!!!!
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Comment by Pam — June 16, 2006 @ 5:15 pm
If you know someone from Davao, you can get durian for as low as P20 per kilo when it’s in season.
I tried Thai durian once and it was so bland, I never tried again.
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Comment by kikay — September 13, 2006 @ 2:42 pm
ITS NOT THE SEEDS THAT YOU WASH WITH WHEN YOU WANT TO REMOVE ITS SMELL FROM YOUR HAND INSTEAD USE THE INNER SHELLS OF THE FRUIT. RUN TAP WATER ON THE INNER SHELL AND WASH YOUR HANDS FROM THE WATER THAT DRIPS FROM THE SHELL.TRY IT IT WORKS!
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Comment by Anonymous — October 11, 2006 @ 6:32 am
loving durian every moment of it. In states all we get is durian from thailand that is frozen, when you thaw it, not the best one. Everytime I come and visit davao, durian is my first wish. They have puyat, basketball, arancillo, cuangco variety and those were the best one I have tasted. Everytime I ate durian, feels like heaven. Foods for the gods, thats what we called here in Davao..
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Comment by Sharon — August 31, 2010 @ 7:24 am