Dessert Comes First

An obsession with dessert and other unabashed opinions of a food writer

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Custard and Macaroons

posted by in Home Bakers, Pasig/Ortigas

This is what happens when custard meets coconut.

When it comes to coconut, I’ve discovered that you either love it or hate it — there’s just no middle ground. Marco, the DJ who makes me sound great on my radio show, hates the stuff – won’t even eat anything that remotely comes from buko or made with gata (coconut milk). My friend, Ricky, also despises coconut, especially the desiccated kind. “Petrified beyond belief, eh?” I nod understandingly. Personally, I adore coconut and everything that comes from it. Another time, I ask Chef Chris Bautista if he’s fond of macaroons. “Macaron, you mean?” He replies. Eep. I should remember that I’m talking to a French-trained chef.

Up until the 20th century, macaroons or macarons referred solely to those circular, ethereal discs sandwiching delicate buttercreams. In more modern times, the crushed almonds in macarons can be replaced with coconut and bound with either egg whites or condensed milk. Though easier to make, there are countless coconut macaroons out there made with coconut that’ve been desiccated to death, difficult to chew and painful to swallow. A short ingredient list doesn’t preclude a pitiful product.

Then Gigi Gaerlan asks me to try her self-named “Custaroons.” Her description of it sounds tantalizing enough, “…a combination of flan/custard/créme caramel…” all things I love, until, “… with a chewy macaroon top.” That just about stops me cold. Still smarting from atrocious macaroons in the past, I don’t make haste to try these cleverly named sweets.

So when they appear at my door, I eye them suspiciously. A golden pocked top created by thin coconut strands stranded for eternity in an enticing mixture of what I assume to be condensed milk and flavoring. They’re similar to the large coconut macaroons sold at Seattle’s Best Coffee which are quite tasty.

Baked in regular 4-ounce muffin liners, the first bite of a Custaroon is a pronouncement of quality desiccated coconut and its inherent chewiness, swiftly followed by an eggy flavor, the “Custa” in the “ ‘roon’.” Gazing at the (large) bite I’ve taken, I can clearly see the demarcation, if you will, of the custard layer and its coconut crown. The two are fine complements to one another, unlikely pairing though they may be. The custard’s smoothness, reminiscent of leche flan, intensifies the pleasant grittiness and muted crunch of the coconut. And it isn’t painfully sweet either.

Gigi tells me that she only used to make Custaroons for Christmas but decided to give in to requests that she offer them year-round. Interestingly, her unique dessert is a product of serendipity. (The best desserts often are). “I started whisking up different combinations using my favorite ingredients,” she tells me. “I didn’t really set out to create a combination of leche flan and macaroons in particular but one of my ‘experiments’ turned out as is.”

And how did she come up with that curious name? “People used to call them ‘cupcakes’, which they aren’t – but after several orders, I knew I had to come up with a name … something catchy … and one that subtly describes what [I think] the product tastes like.”

Gigi’s on a roll with her joyfully quirky Custaroons, and will soon be offering a cheese version (vote for Cheesetaroons, Cheesy ‘roons, etc. on her website) as well as a coffee ‘roon. Maybe even chocolate. I wonder what those will be called?

Custaroons by Gigi Gaerlan
www.custaroons.com

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17 Responses to “Custard and Macaroons”

  • Those remind me of the pineapple macaroons I used to make with my sister, they’d turn out very creamy and custardy, with the pineapple and coconut working their magic. I wasn’t a fan of macaroons until I made those (and sold a good number of boxes to friends during the xmas season). As for macarons, they’ve infiltrated the general consciousness since Pierre Herme. Deli France is making them now!

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  • I have been ordering these YUMMY custaroons from Gigi and I still can’t get enough of it. Can’t wait to taste her new flavors.

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    Joel Reply:

    Check out these treats, too. We’re currently testing the market with these and so far, so good. Everyone who tried have given a positive feedback. visit: vinbakers.multiply.com

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  • I used to be like DJ Marco when I was a kid — anything remotely coconut-y was shunned. Good macaroons made by a friend’s mom were actually one of the first things that started to change my mind. I think tastes should evolve, so now I am (the rare?) middle ground. I sprinkle toasted coconut on my rice cakes, I love gata, and I would so gobble up those Custaroons above (the addition of cheese sounds amazing)! But I still turn my nose up at bukayo, and — sorry for lovers of Almond Joy and the like — I detest the combination of chocolate and coconut.

    I’ve always wondered about our local coconut macaroons and the French macarons. They’re so different in taste, appearance and texture that I wonder if they are even related. Maybe it’s a misnomer, the way our adobo has nothing to do with the Latin American adobos?

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  • while my daughter is crazy about french macarons, i love macaroons!!! especially the homemade ones from liliw, laguna (from noble’s) which are perfectly chewy and oh-so-delicious! now i want to try the custaroons!

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  • Ahh, macaroons… the macaron’s ugly cousin. I have never cared for the stuff, but those do look delectable.

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  • Haha. I just don’t like dessicated coconut, but everything else coconut I like (ah, except those grated semi dried ones that go with bibingka and other kakanin). It’s a texture thing. But these custaroons look silky enough to change my mind about the whole thing…

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  • My Auntie Gigi’s Custaroons are the Tiffany’s of tasty treats (yes, they come in a little blue box and everything!). Eating even just one Custaroon sweetens up my day – and I’m willing to bet a whole box of ‘em that it will do the same for you. The one-in-a-million-melt-in-your-mouth-taste will make you savor every bite – and leave you punching in 0915-333-2000 to order in another box or two. If you weren’t already cravin’ one (box) when the picture on this page loaded, I’ll bet another little blue box you are now!

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  • I never liked coconut in pastries specially MACAROONS , after tasting this now famous Gigi’s CUSTAROONS, i changed my mind and shamelessly admit that I LOVE IT!!! oh so heavenly. :-D

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  • I can’t wait for others to try this scrumptious dessert! It’s just divine! The minute I bit into one, I knew that it was something I would want to eat over and over again. It’s better when you eat it freshly baked because you get to taste the softness of the flan… aaahhh… I just had one awhile ago for dessert after lunch and it totally made me happy!

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  • i just saw Gigi’s Custaroons at ANC’s Shoptalk. Looks good.

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  • Custaroons – mouth-watering, so delectable, so sumptuous, so perfectly chewy, so smooth, and so heavenly once in your mouth. I’ve never tasted anything as good as this since birth.

    To Ms Gigi, for me, you are the Einstein of desserts! Bravo! ;)

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  • This was then available in Omakase, I ordered but it’s out of stock. For sure this is yummy!

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  • Hi Lori! Gigi’s Custaroons are now available in Trinoma, in a dessert outlet called Parvati. Parvati also sells desserts from other home bakers. Parvati is located at the Lobby Level of Trinoma where Gourdo’s, Toast Box and Fully Booked are.

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  • Hello Gigi,
    You don’t know me but Tita Eileen sent
    us 2 boxes of your custaroons. We ate them and loved it. Tita Eileen sent us 3 more boxes for my birthday. I am taking a bite right now. I am a chef by trade and this is one of the most best ever.
    Thank You for creating these special recipe. Don’t change anything. Quality is very important.
    Monina Naylor

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  • this reminds me of a brazilian dessert i’ve tasted before, it’s called quindim.
    I haven’t tried this but i bet our very own custaroon is way much better! =)

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