Thai Food That Doesn’t Quite Make The Grade

Fri, March9th of 2007

11:23 am

There is a Thai phrase that Thai chefs and food critics use to describe Thai food: “rót châat.” It’s actually shortened from the original phrase that (literally) means, “tastes original, spicy hot.” A highly complimentary term used to describe only Thai cuisine, it emphasizes the focus on freshness that enables diners to easily distinguish and appreciate all the component flavors. Thai cuisine is a marvel in its own right, for what other cuisine successfully blends an array of taste sensations?

Thai at Silk at current it-place Serendra, is the new go-to venue for Thai food aficionados. With its anchor on traditional food, many might fall into the trap of going the tom yum kung/chicken pandan/bagoong rice route. But what is eating if not an adventure? While old habits die hard, (we order the tom yum kung), I’m intent on ordering something that I’ve never tried before.

I find it in the Mieng Kham (P290), a dish that has us staring agog with excitement. Beautifully graceful betel leaves are the base on which I spread the viscous, salty sauce and then drizzle a bit of each of the seven condiments: ginger, dried shrimp, lime zest, shallots, roasted peanuts, coconut strips, and chilies. The leaf is then rolled up like a cigar and eaten like a lumpia (spring roll). Like tasting fifty different flavors all at once, it flits a file line between cacophony and harmony but surprisingly, every flavor plays its part. It’s sensational.

The grilled beef with lemongrass salad (P340), littered with chopped leeks and spring onion stalks reminds me of beef tartare, for some reason. With a dominant lime flavor set upon the background of beef, it’s a respite from the excessively spicy tom yum kung that we partake of beforehand.

Tom yum kung (P240) is a staple Thai food known everywhere and eaten in various degrees of spice. At That at Silk, you indicate the level of heat you can handle so that your server can advise the kitchen. Although spicy in Manila is actually “mild” for me and my sisters, the tom yum kung that we order is so incendiary that we are squirming in our seats. The servers are kind enough to send it back to the kitchen to have the heat “toned down,” and once my taste buds have recovered, the only thing I can taste is lime, lime, and more lime. Truly, this soup isn’t one of their better dishes.

Khao Khluk Kapi (P360) aka bagoong rice, is never the same wherever I order it in Manila because its accompanying condiments vary from very little to overflowing. It’s the former at Thai at Silk. The server asks if we’d like him to mix the rice in with the green mango slivers, shallots, scrambled egg strips, chilies, and meat. Even though what I’ve heard is that this restaurant serves portions big enough to share, this rice dish is suitable for one hungry person or two shy diners at most. Tastewise, it’s all right, but I prefer the bagoong rice at People’s Palace or Sukhothai.

Up there in visual appeal as the Mieng Kham is the pad thai (P360). Enclosed in what looks like a mesh sack, it’s actually little strands of cooked scrambled egg ingeniously arranged in rows. To do this, a brass or bronze cone with two small openings facilitates the production of these “golden threads,” just a few of the many delicate egg-yolk creations introduced by the Portuguese to the Thai over 400 years ago. It almost seems a shame to cut into it.

With its hook on serving traditional Thai food, Thai at Silk I feel, has some ways to go when it comes to hitting the mark on the essence of such a revered cuisine. Basic food like the pad thai and bagoong rice aren’t quite “there,” yet, not quite yet rót châat, and there’s a tendency to overdo it on the sour aspect of the dishes. As with any new restaurant, there seems to be something missing, although what that is is relative. I’d also say that the order in which the food arrives needs to be tweaked as well: our main dishes arrive before the soup and we have five plates fighting for space on two small tables.

Visually calming with its predominantly white-and-green interiors, Thai at Silk is a change from the other more ornately decorated Thai restaurants in Manila. It’s a small place however, so the hustle and bustle can exceed a respectable level. I’m told that soon, the restaurant will incorporate a bar and chill out space to maximize its al fresco area and wine selection.

Thai at Silk
G/F Serendra Piazza, 26th St., Fort Bonifacio, Taguig City
(632) 856-0386 / 87

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30 Comments »

They’ve actually already been around for a few months already so I’m not sure how much longer they can use that “we’re still new” excuse for hiccups in their service. The food LOOKS good, but until I start to hear better feedback on Thai at Silk, I’ll probably stick to People’s Palace in Greenbelt for my high-end frou frou Thai food. =)

Thai Food That Doesn’t Quite Make The Grade

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