Dessert Comes First

An obsession with dessert and other unabashed opinions of a food writer

Magnum White King
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A Cheesecake of Choice

posted by in Home Bakers, Others

Of all the dessert samples that come through my door from home bakers, I am most unrelenting on cheesecake. It is of course because I used to make cheesecakes for a living, and the most downloaded recipe on DCF is one for this dessert. Having made hundreds of cheesecakes in my life, it’s the one sweet that I continue to develop and improve at home. I hold it to lofty ideals because cheesecake is my favorite dessert in the world, as steak is my favorite food.

Still, I like to see how others interpret it and I often wonder why more bakers don’t offer it. It’s a simple dessert with a minimum of ingredients but its success lies in the technique.

Gregory Guy, a twenty-something who strikes me as one who’s in a real rush to learn as much as he can about all things culinary, gets my attention with his cheesecake. A Filipino-Chinese, his unique name is a shortened form of Guycochia. Schooled at Paris’ Le Cordon Bleu and having worked in the kitchens of Joel Robuchon and Jean Georges at The Mark in New York, he’s in Manila en route to Europe to hone his skills some more.

In between private caterings, Gregory makes what he calls his baked cheesecakes. Like a many-faceted pleasure, they come in many persuasions: Classic, Lemon, Coffee, Caramel, Oreo, Green Tea, and Vanilla Bean. He says that he can adjust the cake’s density “… based to your liking.”

Gregory’s creation exudes sophistication, one of those desserts that really requires a cake stand and be eaten with gilded forks. Its color: the finest ivory tinged with gold; its striking countenance: a study in symmetry and smoothness. It stuns the eyes, and stirs yearnings deep inside.

A sharp knife slides in and slices right through, a small tug, and treasure springs forth. It’s not without effort as a slice displays ripples of interruption along its sides, evidence of its inherent creaminess and solid density. Ah, baked throughout!

A forkful of this cheesecake is sharp and mellow, a study in sensation. First, it’s silky, cloaking the tongue, then sweetness gently lingering. Slowly, approaching, then hovering over all is a mantle of citrus, something I can taste but not see – lemon definitely, maybe even orange too. I must taste it again to decide. Then, at the intersection of velvet and cream is crisp, an audible counterpoint and applause as the sweet sensations fade. A cheesecake this powerfully good is a reverie and a revelry.

Cheesecakes by Gregory Guy
Prices begin at P500 for half sizes, P1,000 for whole.
Facebook page for orders and inquiries.

17 Responses to “A Cheesecake of Choice”

  • Very nice writing, as usual. Any cheesecake worthy of YOUR praise must definitely be something.

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    Lori Reply:

    Thanks, Jean!

    –lori

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  • I love cheesecakes and I make a humble no-bake version of it from time to time.
    Now, I’m tempted to order this one just because you described it so eloquently! :)

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  • ahhhh…. greg’s cheesecakes! i love the lemon. beautifully written lori. :)

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    Lori Reply:

    Thanks, Jing! YOUR feature is coming up very soon.

    –lori

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  • I’m a sucker for baked cheesecakes! Can’t wait to try this! I just came across a delicious lemon lime cheesecake at My Kitchen by Chef Chris. Perfect mix of sweet and tangy and a crunchy crust!

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  • Baked cheesecakes are ways the best. Their texture can’t be beat.

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  • Thank You for the wonderful words Lori!

    Here is my new Facebook page dedicated to my Cheesecakes!

    https://www.facebook.com/pages/Baked-Cheesecakes-and-More/173449039368373

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    Lori Reply:

    Glad to have spread the word about your cheesecake, Greg! I’m sure you’ll be making the holidays very sweet for many people.

    –lori

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  • how timely! there’s a voucher for it at cashcashpinoy

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  • With most cakes, I can tell by how they look if they’ll be good or not (at least when it comes to texture). And that cheesecake definitely looks the way it should! I think I need to try that, as I love cheesecake, too.

    By the way, I agree with Vickie Antonio above that My Kitchen’s Lemon Lime Cheesecake is good. I like the interplay of its different elements, including the lemon-lime topping. My Kitchen’s desserts are done by a pastry chef (can’t remember her full name, but the first name is TinLou), instead of by Chef Chris Locher. I appreciate when a restaurant gets a pastry chef to do the desserts, because that means they’re made by someone who really specializes in sweets.

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  • OMG. I want this for my birthday! :)

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  • Wow, this is by far the best local blog post ive read! Ala Ruth reichl, napacomment pa ako! Will definitely try this because of your words.

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    Lori Reply:

    J-
    Thanks very much! Yes, please try Greg’s cheesecake.

    –lori

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  • The cheesecake at Cafe Juanita’s is to die for. The best cheesecake this side of the universe!

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  • ı graguated le cordon bleu istanbul recently.. in a mounth ı open atelier at Gümüşsuyu Taksim.. ı always keep myself in the sector, to be able to cook or bake delicous, modern food( some times as old fashion as we know the taste) .. ı love every kind of sweet..

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